Articles

Largemouth Bass on the Fly

Posted by Ted Kraimer - August 17, 2012

By the time July and August have arrived in northern Michigan, fly anglers have had months to fish for trout and other cold-water species. As the weather and water temperatures increase, it’s a great time to fly fish for largemouth bass in the local lakes.

While the Traverse City area does not have the huge bass found in the managed ponds of southern states, or as you might see on a Saturday morning bass fishing TV show, we do have good population — some over the 5-pound mark.

Being a versatile angler (fishing slowly retrieved nymphs, streamers on a sink-tip or casting bulky poppers) will not increase the odds of finding what the fish are in the mood for, but it will make you a better fly angler regardless of the species you pursue in the future — it’s a great way to improve while having fun.

Structure

Target Weed Beds, Wood & Drop-Offs

Structure is a great place to start looking for bass, as it is for just about any species of fish. The increased weed growth, swim platforms and docks found on most lake edges are a great place to start.

Large mats of lily pads and other aquatic weeds are a good place to focus. When the weeds are close or adjacent to drop-offs, another form of structure, it’s that much more likely you will find the bigger, more predatory bass. This cover not only provides safety from larger predators (osprey, eagles, loons, pike, anglers), it more importantly serves as a place where they can eat smaller fish, insects and other food sources. In low light, look for fish to become a little more bold, moving into shallower water and flats to eat minnow and other baitfish.

Flies for Largemouth Bass

Poppers and Chuggers = Surface Fun

Some like it on top, others like it down low. Both the bass and the bass angler have preferences, and it’s up to the angler to either figure out what the fish are in the mood for or how they, as anglers, want to fish that particular day. Personally, there is nothing better than chugging a popper near lily pads only to have it inhaled by a bass.

But like most fishing, bass may want a different presentation, and the versatile angler equipped with various fly styles will be able to adapt to the fish’s preference. Sliders and diving flies fished on either a floating line or clear sink-tip are a nice mix as long, slow strips swims the fly from the surface, down and back up covering more of the water column.

Classic streamers like weighted wooly buggers slowly retrieved do a great job of imitating leeches, and have taken their fair share of fish. So have larger, streamer patterns that look like natural baitfish stripped along the weed bed and/or drop off.

The big popper with rubber legs on the surface, Sneaky Pete’s, frogs, crawfish, small poppers, dragon and damsel flies (both nymph and adult) an assortment of streamers all deserve a place in your fly box.

Equipment

Casting Bulky Flies Requires the Right Equipment

The versatile angler will have both a floating and a sink-tip line to meet the demands of the fish. Specialty tapers for bass exist, but I have found some other lines that I feel perform better: Scientific Angler’s Magnum and Titan tapers and Rio’s Outbound fly lines are a joy to cast.

Reels don’t necessarily need to have the most advanced drag system, as the bass aren’t like a steelhead and we are not protecting light tippets — reels simply serve as line holders.

Leaders are more important than most anglers recognize — the tapper and stiffness of a leader trying to carry and turn over a large, wind-resistant fly is crucial; while we aren’t catching 12-pound bass, we often need that much stiffness and mass to cast the fly well and to muscle fish in and out of weed beds. Look for tapered leaders formulated for bass or even saltwater species.

Rod size varies, but most will find 6- and 7-weight rods, 9-feet in length, are ideal. Some anglers choose to have some fun with the smaller rods for a “ultra-light” approach, where the serious big-fly and heavy-cover angler might opt for the power and efficiency of an 8-weight. Manufacturers like Sage, Redington and Scott have developed rods specifically for warm-water fishing with unique lengths and tapers you might consider if you really get into this type of fishing. Just remember, the best rod is the rod you cast best.

Timing

Morning, Noon or Night - Catch Largemouth Anytime

Some times are better to fish for bass than others, but anytime you can get out and fish is a good time. One of the advantages to fishing largemouth is that they are typically accessible and eager to eat at all times of the day.

Some days the best surface fishing is twilight — the time when the sun has gone over the tree line. Other days, after a cool front has moved through, the sun brings them out and gets them active. Often early mornings are good, too, for the same reason as twilight. During the summer, the daytime temperature forecast is usually what helps me and my customers decide when is best to fish — after all — it’s about getting on the water to fish, having some fun and catching.

Seasonally the bass move from the deep water into shallower, more “fly-angler-friendly” depths in May and can be caught through September. To me, anytime you can catch fish is a good time, but when the trout fishing has slowed or you are looking to mix it up, give bass on a fly rod a chance.

Spending my formative angling years using spinning rod chasing bass, I see July and August as time to reconnect with those early fishing memories of northern Michigan lakes using a fly rod – try it yourself if you haven’t yet.

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Trying New Methods

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 27, 2012

A great aspect of fly fishing in northwest Michigan is the variety of fish we have to pursue – we aren’t limited to just one or two species or the methods we fly fish for them. While you may have fished one or more species already, there are variations in how we can chase your preferred species. Below you will find a short synopsis of the less popular species and/or ways to catch them. Often as anglers we are looking to mix things up, experience something new, or add a new species to our bucket list – here are a few that you might consider adding to your angling plans:

Carp on the Fly

Over the years this has become one of the most inquired about species and fishery that I guide for and why not? It’s intriguing to many that people actually pursue with flies a species once considered a trash fish. And they travel a great distance to do so. These fish offer the angler the closest thing to a saltwater fishing experience right here in Grand Traverse Bay. Carp are often easy to see, but getting a fly to them and getting them to eat it is what makes this species challenging and rewarding when success is accomplished.

Time of Year: The month of June is best, with good fishing in mid-May through mid-July.

Skill Level: Moderate. The successful carp angler needs to be able to cast accurately to 35 feet often in wind.

Notes: Smallmouth bass often are among the carp and can exceed 5 pounds!

Streamer Fishing for Big Trout

The concept isn’t new, however many customers haven’t tried it yet. The idea behind casting big streamer patterns is to trigger the territorial response of the alpha fish and/or offer them a large meal at once. Because the flies range from 3 to 7 inches in length, the fish usually playing along are bigger, too — “qualifying the buyer” so to speak. The number of fish caught tend to be fewer than other methods, as we drift a few miles of river, but size typically makes up for it. Besides, there is something about watching 20-plus inches of brown trout pounce on your fly that makes this all worth while.

Time of Year: Best months include May, June, September and October, but can be done effectively from April through November. It’s a great alternative anytime you don’t see trout.
Skill Level: Moderate. A decent understanding of loading the rod and casting is necessary as is stripping line.
Notes: Like anything new, there is a learning curve, and the only way to learn is to learn along the way.

Swing Flies for Steelhead

For years we were told in Michigan that we need to get to the bottom with lead and nymphs to catch fish, and that our rivers aren’t like those of the Northwest where swinging flies is the norm. Things change. Thanks to a handful of guides here in Michigan who refused the status quo and persevered, fishing two-handed rods for steelhead has become a viable method to catch fish in the Great Lakes state. While it isn’t as effective as nymphing techniques, swinging wet and spey flies and streamer patterns is simply fun. When I started doing it back in the late 90s I dubbed it as being a “Born Again Fly Fisher” — the intrigue, uncertainty, novelty and not knowing whether that long swing was going to be “the one” makes fly fishing seem new again, and a lot of fun.

Time of Year: Late April through early May, October through November
Skill Level: Moderate
Notes: The fall fishery is best as water temperatures are usually conducive to a swung fly and the fish aren’t preoccupied with spawning. In spring the post-spawn or drop-back fishing is best as water temps are ideal, the fish are done spawning and they’re looking to eat before going back to the lake.

Bass Fishing

Fishing top-water flies to largemouth bass can be some of the best fishing of the summer. As the water has warmed and the weed beds have grown, bass tend to congregate around them looking for easy meals; flies that look like frogs or others that “CHUG” across the surface commanding attention often get the “bucket mouth” to eat and that in and of itself is the best part. When the surface bite isn’t on, go subsurface with baitfish streamer patterns.

Time of Year: Late June through Early September
Skill Level: Moderate
Notes: Like many of the techniques mentioned in this article, a decent command of the cast is required to get the big wind resistant flies to where they need to be.

Smallmouth Bass in the River

Once the middle of summer is here, the fish know it too. With lower sections of the Manistee warming up, the smallmouth migrate and become an active target. Smallies are known for their fight, and the river fish are no different than their lake-living brethren. The techniques are varied but include streamers and top water flies. Chugging a popper or swimming a diver just below the surface to have the water erupt is a great visual. The streamer fishing is similar to the streamer fishing described above.

Time of Year: July and August
Skill Level: Moderate
Notes: Casting a wind-resistant popper or a sink-tip with 4 inches of rabbit isn’t for a beginner, but someone who has a good understanding of the cast can typically pick it up quickly. And the more you do something, the better angler you become.

Streamer Fish for Salmon

This is similar to fishing big streamers for trout, except when caught we measure the fish in pounds, not inches. Oh yeah, you better hold on tight to the rod, as the jolt can be just that. Casting large streamers to fish that have recently moved into the lower sections of rivers is work, but often hard work is paid off. The early, bright King/Chinook Salmon in the river aren’t happy — kind of ornery — and this attitude is to our advantage, as their predatory nature is still engaged and willing to eat a fly before they transition to fish with spawning on their minds.

Time of year: Mid-August through Early September
Skill Level: Moderate/Advanced
Notes: Weather conditions are key to this fishing — if conditions aren’t right for fish to be in the river, they simply won’t be there. However, it can all change with a wind shift and a little rain.

Like just about anything new we try, there is some learning, adjusting, tweaking, etc. involved. Often these new adventures or approaches don’t come easy at first, but most likely neither did your first time on the water with the fly rod. If you set out with the intent to learn a new technique with an opportunity to catch fish, you will do well. I pride myself on being able to gauge where your skill level is and teach you a new skill(s) in a linear approach. Casting lessons are always available prior to trips and sometimes are encouraged so you can practice ahead of time to maximize your time on the water. After all, it’s a good time on the water with the potential of that photo op that accompanies a new story about a new-found skill.

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Terrestrials and Terrestrial Fishing

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 26, 2012

Some of Michigan’s most common and important examples of this classification of bugs, a.k.a terrestrials, include grasshoppers, beetles, ants, cicadas and crickets. Anglers headed to the river in the summer months should not only have these flies in their box to represent them, but also should have an understanding of how best to fish them.

Terrestrials are at home on dry land as they hop, fly and crawl on vegetation along the surrounding river banks in grasses and overhanging trees before sometimes finding themselves unexpectedly falling to the water.

Since they don’t swim, they often move erratically as they try to make it back to land, attracting attention and being vulnerable to fish that welcome them with open mouths. It is this insect behavior that we as trout anglers need to observe in order to capitalize.

Bugs, Behavior, and Best Presentation

Some bugs plop, others skitter and some chug across the water – we want to imitate the naturals. If we don’t have natural bugs to observe, a good way to identify what works is to experiment with actions and patterns on the water. My experience has been that preferences last for a few days if not weeks depending on what the natural bug is, which can really differ from the match-the-hatch approach we anglers often experience where stages of bugs over a time frame of minuets can mean the difference between catching and not.

Grasshoppers

With their large, kicking legs these good-sized bugs can not only move some water and bring attention to themselves, but often move across the water faster than the other terrestrials — that is if they don’t drown. Use hoppers on sections of water that have lots of grassy fields along the banks. Takes on hoppers can either be explosive or often very subtle by even the largest of fish as they suck them in from underneath as your fly disappears. Hit the bank and plop, twitch and dead-drift them before repeating the cycle. If that doesn’t work, try skittering them with a pause every once in a while.

Ants

Ants and Flying Ants can land anywhere on the water and usually crawl frantically with their tiny legs but aren’t as noticed because of their size and because they don’t move across much water. If you are fortunate enough to experience a flying ant hatch you will have some of the best fishing you can imagine. Always have some flying ants with you just in case – you won’t regret it. Sunken ant patterns or ants fished wet and under the surface below another fly can be real effective since the small bugs easily drown. Fish them in water likely to hold fish which isn’t too deep, since the bugs aren’t large enough to bring fish up from very deep water.

Crickets

No stranger to the trout angler, live crickets and grasshoppers have been a staple of bait fishing anglers for over a century. After hearing the chirping crickets at night, take note and fish them during the day. You often won’t see them on the water much, but they sometimes get blown in. They are best fished after a good rainfall as they often get washed into the river by the run-off. Fish these dead drift with twitches in seams along banks and over transitional holding water.

Beetles

The unsung heroes of terrestrial fishing – beetles. I think it’s most likely because they are small, difficult to see and don’t really move on the water much. But don’t let these attributes keep you from being prepared. When beetles are prolific or when fish are laid up in shallow water, they are more than anxious to eat them. Fish smaller beetles as a dropper behind an easier to see pattern serving as a strike indicator. Fish them dead-drift in seams and tail outs for best success.

Cicada

These pesky, loud, and obnoxious sounding bugs that buzz and click throughout the summer on those warm days – you’ve heard them. While we don’t have a huge population of them in the area (which is good since they are so annoying) they do end up on the water from time to time and offer a reasonably good size meal for fish. Present cicada patterns dead-drift with some skittering and twitches to bring attention to them. Fish these chunky bugs in sections of rivers that have a lot of nearby and/or overhanging trees.

Learn how to tie the Tar Baby here »

The Attractor Terrestrial

We as anglers aren’t necessarily sure why fish eat them, but large-profile, non-specific imitating patterns like Chernobyl Ants, Skunks, Fuzzy Wuzzies, Club Sandwiches, etc. do a good job of bringing fish up top. It could be that they suggest terrestrials or they actually, from a fish’s perspective, look like a particular terrestrial we haven’t realized. Regardless, these patterns are not only effective but are also fun to fish. “Foam and Rubber” is what the majority of the bodies are made of, so they float well and can serve as an indicator for dropper flies like nymphs or smaller, hard to see dry flies like small ants and beetles. Fish them in all manners described above and know that they can really be effective at bringing fish out of the deeper runs, since their profile is easy to see and their size is rewarding.

When and Where

Terrestrial activity of interest to anglers here in the northern Michigan begins in mid-May and heats up in productivity as the weather itself heats up. After the gold rush of mayfly hatches we experience in the late spring and early summer, terrestrials should become a significant part of your trout fishing approach and strategy. July and August tends to be the peak months however I have experienced good terrestrial fishing extending well through September and sometimes into October before the cold weather and frost put these bugs away for the year.

Most terrestrial behavior increases mid-day as air temperatures rise and dew-fall burns off. Depending on the river and the section you are fishing, mid-day can be tough as water levels are usually very low and the lack of rain in the summer months keeps water clear; once the sun is high and bright, the fish have gone to deep structure where your flies will often pass unnoticed. If fishing tree-shaded water you should have better success mid-day than the open sections here in Michigan. Always look for that dark, mid-deep, shaded water to hold fish – especially inside bends that have secondary currents running along them often with undercut banks. If you’re fishing the mayfly Trico hatch on early summer mornings, try fishing terrestrials before or after the hatch while fish are still out in feeding lies before the sun chases them away.

With months of evening fishing taking place before prime terrestrial fishing begins, it feels good to get an early start on the day and fish in broad daylight. On the hot days, the fishing can be rewarding simply by wet wading and staying cool, but when the fish are playing along and falling victim to your well-fished terrestrial pattern, the day just got better. Observe, experiment and choose the right fly for the right conditions and enjoy what can be the most underappreciated fishing of the year here in Michigan.

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Introducing Others To Fly Fishing

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Chances are if you are reading this, you already like to fly fish. If that’s the case – why not share it with someone new to the sport – a kid, a friend or family member? Below you will find reasons to introduce others, how to avoid intimidation and resources to help you along the way.

Reasons

There are plenty of reasons why introducing someone to fly fishing is advantageous – here are some which might apply to you:

It’s often nice to share the time with someone else, especially the drive to and from the water. Besides, having a friend to net the that big fish and take a picture is easier than by yourself.
Safety in numbers – what if something happens and you’re alone? Having a friend nearby can prove real smart.
Get someone involved who will get you on the water more. A good example is a friend who got his father-in-law into the sport. The amount of time he spent
fishing increased significantly — plus, he had his wife’s
support and approval.
By getting your kids out, not only will you get to spend some good time with them outdoors, but it will get you on the water more and with mom’s blessing.
Share the sport and promote conservation. We need all the help we can get with preserving and improving our fisheries – one more license bought and a future voice to speak will only help.
Pass the sport on to a kid. There are plenty of activities competing for kids attention today, and it seems like the majority of them take place indoors. Get a kid outside and mentor them – they are the future of fly fishing. Big Brothers & Big Sisters, the neighbor kid, a nephew or other relative are possible candidates – have an impact.

Avoid Intimidation

Thinking back to when I first started this sport without a mentor, I was intimidated by all there was to know and didn’t know where to begin. Eliminate that feeling for a beginner by coaching them on the necessary basics and keeping it fun. Here are some thoughts on how to achieve this:

Let them use some of your equipment at first to see if they like the sport before they buy. This eliminates the costs associated and allows them to try the sport first.
Start them off with a casting lesson on the lawn or on a pond without the intimidation of flies/hooks, moving water, picky fish, etc. This reinforces the fundamentals of fly fishing – casting and once grasped, it makes it
easier to fish.
When I first started off, a good day of fishing was measured by not catching trees or tag alders along the bank. Any caught fish were an extreme bonus. Don’t hold them to your own fishing expectations – you probably are much better at the sport than they are. Instead, help make realistic goals and encourage them. Don’t snicker at a tangled leader or the small brook trout they caught.
Pick the season and species. Bluegill fishing on ponds and lakes is a great way to learn the sport. There are often plenty of fish that eat aggressively, providing opportunities on how to set the hook and bring a fish to hand. The basics are still required: casting, line control, fly manipulation, reeling, knots, etc. Consider that there are many more places to fish panfish than there are trout rivers.
If trout fishing, determine an ideal time to get out there. Opening day or late evening spinner falls for selectively feeding fish aren’t necessarily ideal for someone starting out. Fish when there is daylight so they can see what they are doing and can feel comfortable as they learn how to wade.
If you’re thinking about getting your wife or girlfriend involved, proceed with caution. Based on observation, I think it’s sometimes best to let someone else help with this task rather than test the strength of your relationship. This is where a guide’s fee can be priceless.
Keep the amount of time realistic. Don’t push the sport and when they are frustrated, offer a hand and encouragement rather than a chuckle. Be patient – they might just pick up the tab at the tavern on the way home.

Resources

Here are some suggestions on resources to help you, the mentor get the newbie started and off in the right direction:

Get them a casting lesson to get started without teaching them any of your bad habits. Hiring a professional will streamline the process.
Hire a guide for a half-day instead of a full-day to flatten the learning curve and keep it fun. As an FFF certified casting instructor and a guide, I have an appreciation for having fun while keeping the learning on track and often into fish without overwhelming them. Make their first experiences with the sport positive.
Selfish and shamelss promotion: hiring a guide will help
make it that way.
The Traverse City based Adams Chapter of Trout Unlimited offers two unique programs for kids. The “First Cast” program takes place in the summer one night a week for appx. 5 weeks. The Adams Chapter also works with The Kalamazoo Valley Chapter of TU and sponsors kids to attend a four day camp for young adults to learn about fly fishing. Check the Adams Chapter website for more information on these programs.
There are ideal books and DVDs for someone starting out, including “First Cast to First Fish” by Joseph Petralia, “Fly Fishing Made Easy” by DVD from Scientific Anglers and “The Little Red Fishing Knot Book” by Harry Nilsson.
For kids, consider “First Cast: Teaching Kids to Fly Fish” by Phil Genova and “Fly Fishing with Children” by Philip Brunquell.

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Rigging for Steelhead & Salmon

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

There are a number of ways anglers can pursue steelhead and salmon with a fly, and different techniques require various approaches to rigging: line, leader, tippet &/or terminal tackle like swivels and weight.

Just like many things, there are numerous ways of doing something – my goal is to demonstrate some of the most common and practical methods used on Michigan Rivers and their steelhead that have worked for me and my customers over the years.

Duck and Chuck

Probably the most common, effective and easy method for steelhead in the Great Lakes region is Chuck ‘n Duck. This technique gets your fly down quickly and doesn’t require traditional fly casting skills, making for a flat learning curve. Running/shooting line is typically used as the fly line with a butt section attached via either a Nail knot or Albright knot. I prefer to use Maxima 12# Ultragreen or 12# Fluorocarbon if water clarity is a concern.

Smaller Rivers

On smaller rivers like the Betsie, Bear Creek, Pere Marquette, and others, the length of the butt section is usually about 7 to 8 ft because the rivers rarely have holes that approach that depth. I tie the butt section to a quality barrel swivel and leave a long, tag end which serves as a dropper to attach various pieces of split shot. In theory, the shot – if caught – will slide off the line under a deliberate pull, potentially saving your entire rig or at least part of it. If the shot is slipping off the tag easily, tie a double overhand knot to provide a stopper – a must if using fluorocarbon since it doesn’t compress very well when attaching the split shot.

On the other end of the barrel swivel I attach my “leader,” which varies in strength – 5 to 8# test depending on conditions and species. I usually tie my first fly 30 +/- inches from the swivel and the second fly about 24 inches from that; secure the line around the bend of the hook of the first fly. Some like to tie both pieces of leader material to the eye of the first fly – it’s your choice.

Larger Rivers

On larger rivers like the Big Manistee, Muskegon and AuSable where depth becomes a consideration, use an 8-12 ft of butt section. Because flow and depth tend to be greater on the larger rivers, the need for extra weight is also a concern. Rather than use split shot, I use pencil lead, which comes in one-pound coils and can be cut to whatever length/weight is required. A hole is punched through the end of the lead which attaches to a snap swivel running along the butt section.

To change the amount of lead, simply open the snap swivel and replace with a different piece/size. To protect the knot use a 4mm plastic bead (I prefer black) between the sliding snap swivel and the barrel swivel attached to the end. Fly placement is similar to the rig used on smaller rivers, detailed above.

Floating Line & Optional Indicator

The floating line method has become more popular in the past few years as anglers’ abilities to cast and mend have improved. When used with an indicator, this method offers advantages such as detecting light takes and suspending flies over obstacles on the river bottom. By casting longer sections of line, unlike chuck n’ duck, you don’t need to strip in as much line before recasting. Slightly heavier fly lines like Scientific Angler’s Magnum Taper make casting these rigs easier.

A tapered leader is used with a floating line, attached either by a loop-to-loop connection or Nail Knot. Stiff-butt leaders like Bass and Stripped Bass leaders work well in this application to help cast the weight of two flies, split shot and optional strike indicator. These leaders are typically about 8 feet long. I like to use one that breaks a minimum of 10# test (often I will replace the tippet section of the leader with fluorocarbon for clear water). At the end I tie a barrel swivel and leave a long tag (aprox. 2-3 inches) to apply my split shot to, often with a double overhand knot at the end to keep the shot from slipping off. The flies are attached to tippet/leader material tied to the swivel – 30 +/- inches to the first fly, 24 inches after that.

If you choose to use a strike indicator/float/bobber, attach it to the butt section at the proper distance for the depth you are fishing. Indicators like the Thing-a-ma-bobber offer simplicity – quickly add it to your leader and easily adjust it once on. Balsa style indicators like Thill’s Ice’ n Fly cast a little better as they have more mass – I like to run the line through it, and back through again, then adjust the length by loosening the loop and sliding the indicator up or down. When fishing water that is “snaggy,” I like to suspend the flies and prefer a Drennan Piker float. The line runs through the float and is held in place by either bobber stoppers or a heavy piece of mono attached via uni-knot as a bobber stop. The floating line rig is most effective when fishing holes and runs less than 5 feet deep.

Float Fishing/Fly-Pinning

Center Pin reels have become popular over the past decade mostly because of their effectiveness at presenting long, drag-free drifts. Fly anglers have adjusted their tackle and are doing something similar to the Center Pin approach. By using long, 11ft +/- rods, floats and fly lines, fly anglers, too, can get their flies to drift drag-free with lots of careful mending. This is a great way to keep your flies off of the bottom and moving through promising seams. When the float moves, get tight – it might be a fish. Adjust your float length per run to keep it off the river bottom and its snags.

The leader set-up I use consists of 1 foot of 30# Maxima Chameleon attached to the fly line and 10# Maxima Ultragreen, 6-8 ft in length for the large, deeper rivers with a barrel swivel tied at the end. On the other end of the swivel, I tie a leader/tippet approximately 18 inches long to the first fly and 12 inches to the second. When using a Drennan Piker Float be sure to run the butt section through it before tying on the swivel. Attach small split shot along the leader to get the proper amount of weight for depth and flow conditions. This “string” of split shot makes casting easier and helps keep the line directly vertical between the flies and the float making for a better presentation and strike detection.

Swinging Flies

Each year more anglers are swinging streamers, spey and wet flies with sink-tips thanks to the recent popularity of switch and spey/two-handed rods. Single-handed rods work too for this method but don’t have the advantage of line control and ease of casting the longer rods offer.

In almost all cases, swinging flies in Michigan rivers requires a section of sinking fly line, often called a sink-tip. Regardless if you are using interchangeable tip or a fixed length of sinking line, you need a leader. Umpqua makes a Freshwater Shorty leader which is 5 ft in length which will work but I prefer to tie a quick and simple leader – here’s the recipe:

18” Maxima Chameleon 20#
12” Maxima Ultragreen 15#
30” Fluorocarbon – 12# Scientific Anglers or Rio Flouroflex

The different sections making up the leader should be joined by using a blood knot. Once tied, secure the heavy end of the leader by either a loop-to-loop connection or nail knot to the fly line; the fly is tied to the end of the leader with your preferred knot.

With our many rivers in Michigan and throughout the Great Lakes region which receive a run of steelhead and salmon, being prepared with the right equipment can lead to success. These methods are relatively straight forward and should assist in making for some good fishing and if done right, a few fish to the net. Good luck.

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