Articles

Keeping Spey Fishing Simple

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

The title of this article might be a misnomer, since spey fishing, a minor segment of the fly fishing industry, has grown with lots of equipment options, specialties and styles, but also because of the never-ending supply of suggestions and opinions about the sport. This article is just that — some of my opinions to help those of you who are either newbies or novices to two-handed casting/fishing. Hopefully these suggestions will make the experience not only easier to get started, but less confusing and intimidating.

Brief History

Spey fishing was originally developed in Scotland on the River Spey where long casts were required but little room for a back cast existed. Long rods were employed and a unique style of casting developed that allowed long casts with short back casts. Today, this method – spey casting – is commonly referred to as two-handed casting. The predominate presentation used with this method has typically been a wet fly swing – casting at a downstream angle and letting the fly “swim” across the river as the current brings it to the downstream position below the angler.

The advantages of using these longer rods and “organized” roll casts goes beyond making long casts with short back casts – they include: requiring a minimal effort to cast long distance, excellent line control, leverage to cast large flies with heavy sink-tips, and overall efficiency.

Today

Within the last 30 years, North American anglers adopted this technique and originally applied it to steelhead and salmon fishing, the most common species targeted with two-handed rods. Most places where flies are presented on the swing for just about any species (trout, smallmouth bass) are applicable for two-handed casting/fishing – using these rods just makes it easier and efficient once learned. The original “spey” flies with their slim profile and often wispy materials are still available today and remain effective, however they have been combined with various streamer designs, tying materials and techniques offering a great selection of fly patterns to choose from for a number of species.

Considerations & Suggestions for Learning Two-Handed Casting

Avoid Intimidation. There is a lot of equipment out there, lots of jargon, shop slang and other terms that might seem confusing, overwhelming and even contradictory – it is easy to step back and question whether or not to try two-handed casting but it’s like many things that are new to us. Remember the first time you used a computer? Choose one or two sources of information that you trust to get started and consult those sources with questions you have about the sport. These sources could be an experienced friend or a fly shop with an understanding and experienced staff you trust.

Choose a Casting Style. This is where your trust in the sources mentioned above can first help. There are a number of different casting styles with two-handed casting/fishing – Classic, Skagit, and Scandinavian are the most common. Each style offers pros and cons. The species you intend to target, the rivers you are most likely to fish, and the flies you will use should help make this decision easier.

Learn that Style. Now that you have picked a style, learn it. Too often I have seen anglers bounce from one style to another without having a solid grasp of either method. The long, fluid motions often used with the longer lines of Classic does not lend itself to Skagit style, nor does the abrupt bottom-hand casting of Scandinavian casting work well the other two styles. Stick with one style and become proficient with it before experimenting with other styles.

Practice. You probably don’t get a chance to fish enough, so the few times you can hit your favorite river when conditions are ideal is no time to learn how to cast a two-handed rod – it’s the time to fish. Spending time in the off-season on rivers, lakes or even the lawn can assist in learning and provide the muscle memory, ability and efficiency required to take advantage of two-handed casting/fishing. Keep in mind that while floating lines are typically used when learning, as they are more forgiving with bad technique, they don’t cast the same as a sink tip. If you intend on fishing with sink-tip lines, begin practicing with that line setup once you can execute the fundamentals of casting with a floating line.

Practice Makes Permanent. Make sure that you are practicing the right thing, not reinforcing the poor technique. There are lots of resources to help you learn the fundamentals of casting, including DVDs, books and instructors. Find what works best for you and once you know what you are supposed to do, practice and learn the right things, not the wrong. I personally found a combination of all three resources worked well for me, and as I continue to advance with my technique, I often consult the same resources.

Learn the Same Length. When initially learning to cast, determine what amount of line is ideal to load the rod while offering you control of the line through the cast. Each time you will find that casting the same amount of line will be much easier to control vs. a varying length thanks to the muscle memory you have developed by repetitively making the same motion with a fixed amount of line. Once determined, make it easy to identify the right amount of line by marking your line at your hand with a permanent marker. Should you choose to shoot the line on the forward delivery, go for it – this step takes place after the crucial line placement, but remember it’s easier to learn to walk before running.

Two-Handed Rods vs. Switch Rods. A two-handed rod is designed to be cast with two hands for specific applications and presentations. A “switch rod” is a rod that allows you to fish it with one hand or two; one hand while doing conventional overhead fly casting or you can “switch” and use two-handed methods. Both rods require two hands to cast, but the switch rod is no replacement for a two-handed rod. With that being said, there are applications for a switch rod that make them a better choice over two-handed rods. Two-handed rods often require a significant amount of the line to help load the rod to cast. If fishing smaller rivers or making smaller casts, the longer, two-handed rod isn’t necessarily the best choice whereas the switch rod often lends itself to smaller bodies of water and shorter casts. Further, two-handed rods typically cast longer distances, heavier flies and longer sink-tip sections.

Find a Line, Then Buy It. This can be the one of the more difficult, confusing, timely and often expensive aspects of learning to use a two-handed rod. Single-hand rods have a line weight designated for each rod – that is a 6 wt. rod casts a 6 wt. line. While there can be a few exceptions, it generally holds true. With two-handed rods the line weight printed on the rod is not a determining factor for which weight to use.

Two-handed lines are much heavier than their brethren. An 8 wt. line for a single-handed rod will not work on an 8 wt. two-handed rod. Two-handed rods often have a “grain-window” meaning it will cast a number of different line sizes (measured in grains) that load the rod. Each person has a preference for how the rod feels and the best performing line size. Fly size, style and amount of sink-tip are all factors in narrowing down which line is best for your rod. Confusing, I know.

Buying a line, trying it and finding out it isn’t what you hoped can be expensive – especially after a number of attempts. You can ask what others like on your rod, but that’s what they like and there are typically variances in everyone’s opinion. But asking can help establish a starting point. Fly shops dedicated to spey fishing often have a demo kit consisting of a number of fly lines for you try on your rod before you buy the line. Think: “Test Drive.” Another way is to try lines that your friends own. Once you have identified which line is best for you, buy it with confidence.

Learn Four Casts. As technique, equipment and styles for two-handed rods developed, so have casts. Still, there are some basics I think one should learn which will prove effective under most situations: Single Spey, Double Spey, Snake Roll and Snap-T/Circle Spey. Because wind direction varies as does our position in river, it suggested that you learn to make all four casts with your left and right hand on the top fore grip to keep your back cast downwind of us – with gusts of wind, and sharp hooks the ability to make your casts safely is just good thinking.

Speyclave. Two-handed anglers are often dedicated members of the fishing community who not only like to fish, but choose to do it in a particular manner. As such, they tend to communicate their lingo, jargon, share their experiences and what seems to be never ending supply of opinions – some good, some not necessarily so. One format for this sharing is through Speyclaves – one or two-day events which are organized near a river with manufacturer representatives, guest speakers/instructors, and anglers like you. These are great venues to learn more about the sport, techniques, and demo/try lines and rods – check out for more information about a Speyclave happening near you at www.speypages.com/speyclave.

Confused?

Go back to the first suggestion which is to have a resource or two who you can consult with. Most people find it’s worth learning to cast and fish a two-handed rod as it’s similar to learning how to fly fish all over again, bringing with it the excitement we once had when we first picked up that single-hand rod. Remember, when it is all said and done, all we are trying to do is feed a fly to a fish. In this case, we are using a rod that requires two hands to cast it. Simple, isn’t it? At least in concept. Good luck and have fun.

Tips For Better Streamer Fishing

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Streamer fishing has really evolved over the past 15 years, from fishing small patterns like Mickey Finns and Grey Ghosts fished swung and quickly stripped back on floating lines, to flies commonly ranging from 4-6 inches long, often with lots of bulk, a large profile, shimmer and flash, weight and other accessories and fished on a heavy sink-tips. By doing so, we take big flies to big fish and break-up those periods where surface action is nil but we still want success on the water.

This is not the “gentleman’s” way to present a fly. Often, this presentation triggers a pure territorial response, getting the fish to eat; other times, they just want to eat something big and go back under a log for a while. That’s how they get bigger. This isn’t necessarily a new style of fishing for many, for others it is. Regardless of your experience or the species you cast a streamer to (trout, salmon, steelhead, smallmouth bass), the following tips are suggestions for improving your streamer fishing and scoring big.

Mix it up

Fish can be particular from one day to the other and even throughout the day – not so much to fly sizes, but color and movement. Anyone who has been fishing on “the day” knows that streamer fishing can be some of the most exhilarating and successful ways to catch big fish. But it can turn on and off quickly and/or the fish can have an attitude change and decide something else looks good. Sunlight can make a fly look different, so if the light changes, consider how your once-hot fly might appear in the new conditions and change it if need to be.

Mix up not only your patterns with respect to their colors, size, profile, action, amount of weight, but also how you fish them: faster, slower, deeper, jig-like, lots of pause/suspension, quickly, jerkily; in the heavy structure, in the middle of the river, perhaps the inside seams with little structure. Mix it up, look for a behavioral pattern and always assess. The more you fish the more you will develop your favorite patterns for certain conditions. Let your gut dictate what you should try, but don’t be stubborn and stick with something that isn’t working.

Don’t Recast

If your cast fails to hit the target and falls a little short, rather than pick it up and attempt to get that extra 2 feet of length, let it go and fish it – that is, unless it’s going right into a snag or something else ominous. Here’s why: If you pull that fly out, you may have pulled out of the water just as a fish was about to smash it. Further, if you recast it will you really hit the target the second time? Lastly, when you pull the fly out to recast, you often spook fish and alert them that something isn’t right so your second cast comes through disturbed water with an educated fish in it. Make your cast and fish it out.

Feel The Fish

Set the hook when you feel the fish, not see the fish eat. It has happened too many times – a brown trout into the mid-20s or a 15-pound salmon comes up to eat, mouth opens and the fly rips through the water thanks to a premature hook set. Strike one – you’re out. Keep that fly moving, and when you feel the tug, set the hook as hard as the equipment will allow you to. If you do everything right, the hook fails to stick and the fly comes up and out of the water, cast it right back in there immediately. The fish is typically committed and is now pissed that they ate but didn’t get it in their mouth and are looking around for the “escapee.” I have witnessed fish chasing and eating a fly a number of times before it all connects and the fish is on. Really, cast it in their again and move the fly.

Present Your Fly, Not Your Line & Leader

If fishing with a streamer, you want your fly to be what the fish see, not your line and/or leader. Because we often use such short, stout leaders to dark color sink-tips, we can do things incorrectly with ease. Since fish mostly look upstream, cast your fly at an angle to the river that will keep your fly moving slightly across the current and broadside, exposing the fly to more fishy looking water. With streamer fishing being a predator/prey scenario, keep in mind that the prey (the fly) will use the current of the river flow to escape the predator (fish) rather than move upstream and fight the current to escape the danger. When the cast gets swept downstream and turns to go upstream, strip it back upstream once or twice, but not in completely – it’s time to recast.

When we cast the correct angle, we need to be sure we keep the fly moving the right direction but not too swiftly where the fly is streaking across and downstream too fast and without enticing action. To help with this, mending goes a long way to slow the speed and present more of the fly to good looking structure and hopefully fish, too.

Multi-Task

You have two eyes – use them both. Keep one eye on your fly and your line and how it is moving through the water, adding mends, looking for response from fish and avoiding snags. With the second eye, look downstream for your next target. Rather than cast out immediately after you strip your fly back in, it might be prudent to move a little downstream before casting so the fly gets as close to the structure as possible.

Choose Your Leader

Use a short leader, not a long one with sink-tips. The sinking section of the line is used to penetrate the water column and present the fly at the depth we desire. A short leader keeps the fly close to the sinking line, whereas a long leader can end up riding higher in the column due in part to the current forces and any buoyancy characteristics of the fly. I prefer a leader no longer than 5 ft. in length.

Use a long leader, not a short one with floating line (7 to 9 feet). We do this for the opposite reason as above. If we want the fly to sink and get deep, we need enough leader that will allow separation of fly from floating line. Make sure the fly has some weight to it when using a floating line, unless you aren’t looking to fish it deep.

Keep It Moving

As we strip that fly through the water, yet again, sometimes that big fish appears from nowhere tracking the fly. Too often anglers stop moving the fly to let the fish “catch-up.” Don’t – keep it moving! By stopping, it’s typically a game-over situation as the fish recognizes something is wrong and goes back to where he came from – why would something fleeing for its life just give up? Anglers’ shoulders slump, jaw opens and some profanity slips out.

Keep the fly moving — maybe slower or more erratically to entice the bite, but keep it moving. It’s not a guarantee that the fish will eat but you should know there are no guarantees in the sport just experience to learn from. As such, sometimes smallmouth bass like the fly stopped when they follow it. Try it – if it doesn’t work after a few attempts of pausing it, go back to keeping it moving.

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Tips for Fighting and Landing Fish

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

We all fish for different reasons, but one thing remains certain for all of us – when we hook a fish, we want to land it. Whether it’s a trophy steelhead you’ve been determined to catch for years or an 8-inch brook trout, there are certain principles to understand and fundamental skills to use when on the river. Here are some pointers I have picked up through the years by doing, observing and teaching which will increase your chances of telling a fish story that doesn’t start with, “You should have seen the one that got away.”

Under Pressure

We have all heard it – keep a tight line on the fish. This holds true for almost every conceivable fishing situation – maintain tension and keep the slack out. Not doing so increases two potential pitfalls: 1. Pressure on the hook keeps it in the fish – hopefully buried into the bend of the hook. With slack in the line, the hook can literally fall out of the entry point leaving you with slack line and disgusted look on your face. 2. The longer the fish, the more distance they can move their head. This back-and-forth action coupled with lighter line is similar to how you break thread or a line in your hand – you start with slack and then forcefully jerk it. Think about it – do you pull evenly and smoothly to intentionally break a line? Maintain tension to help prevent the line from snapping.

Being Smooth

Maintain a tight line by reeling and pulling with the rod, but do it smoothly. Have you ever seen a large bull cow with a ring in its nose? Its purpose is to allow the handler to lead the bull around: smoothly draw it in a direction and it will follow, but if yanked or pulled hard it often violently moves in the opposite direction. The same is true with fish. In fact, you can almost make a case for Newton’s Third Law of Physics: for every action there is an equal but opposite reaction – the harder you pull on a fish in one direction, it often wants to go in the other direction that much more. Reel smoothly and bring the fish to you or to a place downstream where you intend to land it.

Fish Judo

Hooked fish are often easy to steer and control because you have them hooked in the leading part of its anatomy – the mouth. As long as you keep that head moving in the right direction, you have a better chance of dictating and controlling the fight and keeping emotions under control. But, not always. Often the fish tumbles, jumps or quickly changes directions and gets his head going in the opposite direction you want. When this happens the fish is in control and often heads for cover/structure, which more often than not here in Michigan means logs.

Rather than pulling straight back with rod in the opposite direction the fish is headed (which, with larger species only infuriates them more – remember Newton’s Third Law?) – use “Fish Judo” which, in essence, is using their energy to your advantage. With a low rod, lead them away from the ominous structure by pulling the fish to the side, favoring its intended direction and steer it away.

How Much Is Enough?

There can be a fine line between too much pressure and not enough. Often, it isn’t enough. Truly. When anglers hold the rod tip straight up while fighting the fish, they often do so to keep the slack out, but are putting very little pressure on the fish. Does it seem like you’re applying serious pressure or that the rod is maxed out? You might be surprised as I was when my eyes were opened during a tarpon fishing trip.

Try this experiment/exercise: Get a friend (better if it’s a fellow angler) and pull 25 feet of line and leader through the rod. Have your friend pull back on the rod with the tip up and maintain pressure while you hold the end of the leader. How much pressure do you feel? If this isn’t scientific enough for you then get some type of weight scale like a boga grip and tie the line to it. Repeat the experiment and read the scale and read the results. Change places with your friend and repeat — the scale readings will give you a better idea of how much pressure you are applying. Further, move the rod tip down closer to horizontal and see how that affects the amount of pressure on the scale. Remember – it’s the snap or jerk of the line that is more accountable for breaking rather than smooth pressure which is why equipment too, plays a role in protecting lines when applying pressure, i.e., a smooth drag and a rod tip that flexes and acts as a shock absorber.

The Kiss of Death

The time, in my opinion, when a fish is most likely to “spit the hook” and send the hook back to you is when it’s down stream, facing you, and shaking its head violently. I hate it. And it happens often. When this occurs, we as anglers often have the rod tip pointed up and the force of the water brings the fish to the surface, thrashing. As soon as you see this happen – or better yet – starting to happen, move your rod down to a horizontal position and to the side furthest away from the fish, creating the maximum angle between your rod tip and the fish. By doing so you gain additional continual pressure on the hook through the headshaking as the current assists by putting a downstream bend in the line. Also, this lowered, sideways pressure encourages the fish to get its head down in the water column where you can tire the fish out instead of holding on and hoping.

“Let him go, let him go!”

Some days when guiding I seem to say this more than others. When a fish is making a run and is in charge, let him go. By holding your reel handle or grabbing the line, only bad things happen — and it’s usually a fish lost because of line breaking or flies pulling out. When a fish runs, trust your drag setting (you did adjust it at the start of the day didn’t you?) and let him go while incorporating some of the pointers mentioned above.

Reel Fast

If you don’t get the opportunity to fish much and are a little slow at reeling in – practice at home. Put your reel on the bottom section of your rod and just practice “air-reeling.” Make your reeling faster and smother by keeping your elbow and forearm at a 90-degree angle to the face of the reel and using a circular wrist motion to wind – if not, your reeling will be jerky and definitely not as fast.

Water Survey

This often happens sub-consciously, but not always. While fishing, you are reading water to make the best presentation of your ability to the water most likely to be holding fish. Through this process take stock of structure, depth, overhanging trees and water depth. By doing so, when you hook a fish in that particular location, you know where you need to keep that fish from going and where a good location is to land a fish, while remaining safe (and dry).

Giving Them the Wood

Sometimes a fish gets the upper hand on you – that is they are going to break you off on some type of structure or go around the river bend, etc. , and there simply isn’t much you can do – except, “Give ‘em the wood.” This last-ditch effort to get the fish to hand is done by applying the maximum power of the rod through the butt section and trying to slow down, turn, or stop the fish – something to disrupt the pending course of events and keep the fish on the line. By doing this you are taking your equipment to the maximum – testing the strength of rods, tippets and knots – but if you don’t you will lose the fish. Think of this as an all or nothing move – meaning, the fish is going to win/get away unless you stop them so, give ‘em the wood.

The Capture

Some like to use nets, others like to grab fish with their hand or landing glove. Regardless, you need to get the fish close to you first and second, the grab or sweep of the net needs to be done swiftly and at the right time. When the fish is close, have your rod down low and lift its head up smoothly – but stay committed with lifting until the fish is in the net. If fishing with a friend or guide, this is the time they sweep the net under the fish – head first, with confidence, not hesitation. If using a landing hand on larger species like steelhead or salmon, execute a “Heron Grab” which is done by plunging your hand downward onto the fish’s wrist (the skinny part of the tail) and hold on firmly. Be sure to communicate during the process or the communication after the failed attempt will be colorful and often will test any friendship. If you are by fishing by yourself, get the fish close and have your rod on the opposite side of where you intend to land it. If fishing for smaller fish like a trout, gently grab the fish around its middle or slide the net under it. Never bring a fish up onto the shore or muddy bank as sand, silt and other debris will get into their gill plates, often killing the fish within a few days.

Keep in mind we are out fishing for fun, whereas the fish – once hooked – are fighting for survival. Even though you might follow all of these suggestions and tips as well as some of your own, sometimes it isn’t enough and the fish wins. Rather than be pissed-off – tip your hat in appreciation of that fish and get ready for the next chance at landing what could be even bigger and better; use the tips for fighting and landing fish above to help make that happen.

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Trout Fishing Before the Hex Hatch

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Great Hatches & Fishing Before the Hex Hatch

The hex hatch that occurs every year from Mid-June and sometimes extending into Mid-July is no secret to anyone who has fished and/or read about Northern Michigan’s trout fishing. Just as the western rivers are known for the salmonfly or stonefly hatch, the hex is our claim to angling and fly fishing notoriety.

The large, nocturnal hatching hexagenia limbata mayflies bring out some of the largest and most-weary fish, but it also brings on big expectations, crowded riverbanks, and dark fishing condition. Do I dare suggest abandoning hex fishing? Absolutely not – just consider the great fishing opportunities just prior to the hex hatch for the year’s best dry fly fishing.

The Good News

Spinner Fall

In early June, anglers can expect to find a smorgasbord of bugs on the water. Mayflies, stoneflies and caddis – often at the same time – can be floating down the river. As they often do, trout can key in on not only a particular insect, but also life-stage providing anglers with some great dry-fly challenges.

Here is a breakdown of what mayflies you can expect to find on the water in the weeks prior to the hex emergence:

Sulphurs

Ted’s Sulphur Emerger

Latin: Ephemerella subvaria, rotunda, invaria, & dorthea
Common Name: Sulphurs, Light Hendricksons, Pale Evening Dun
Hook Size: #14-16

The Sulphur hatch encompasses a number of similar looking bugs all rolled up into one, long lasting hatch. Starting as early as mid-May, look for the bugs to continue well into the first few weeks of June.

The prolific nature of these bugs is partly due to a wide range of conditions that the bugs call home. From slow moving water to the fastest of riffles, the nymphs crawl around until conditions are right to emerge. Typically in the last two-three hours of evening before dark, these easy to identify bugs will start to populate the water’s surface before flying off to mature in to adults. Duns vary in color; they can be: yellow, creamy yellow, orange, yellow with hints of olive, and light green. They dun’s wings are a true dun (grey) color and all stages of this bug have three tails.

Sulphur spinners love riffles and can range in color from “rusty spinners”/ maroon to a mix of brown and yellow while all Sulphurs spinners sport clear wings. They can build in numbers a few hours before dark and fall to the water even past dark making for some of the most challenging fishing – small sips from large fish in low light. Be there.

Tip: Emergers are deadly for Sulphurs since they typically leave the water’s surface immediately after shucking its nymphal exoskeleton. Spinners at dark can bring up great fish. Although difficult to see, look for them in fading seams. Crouch down low in the water to help locate those delicate sippers.

Mahogany Dun

Sparkle Dun Emerger

Latin: Paraleptophlebia Adoptiva
Common Name: Mahogany Dun, Small Slate Wing Dun
Hook Size: #16

Found in mixed water: slow, moderate and quick riffles, these bugs are difficult to see on the broken surface of riffles, so be sure to look in the smoother water for not only identification, but also feeding fish. With three tails, the duns have grayish wings and a reddish brown color (hence the name Mahogany) whereas the duns have a slightly darker body and a clear wing.

The small size of the Mahogany Dun can bring up some of the larger fish to feed. What makes this bug a little less known to most anglers is that fish gently sip on them and hearing them is unlikely – you need to look astutely for risers. Once you see fish in their teens and into twenty inches feeding on these you might not be a believer that such a small bug is of significance. Look closely at tail outs and glassy flats for the smallest ring of the rise for fish feeding. Because they often hatch the last couple of hours before dark, the fish can be very selective to your presentation. One blown cast or some drag on the fly that resembles a mayfly on water skis crossing the wake and its all over.

Tip: The Mahogany Dun is one of those flies that the fish just like to key on some days even though there are other bugs to choose from. Do these bugs sit in the water differently, dead-drift longer or simply taste better? It doesn’t matter; learn to recognize when this bug is on the water and have a skeleton key to some of the most selective trout.

Black Quills

Borcher’s Drake Parachute

Latin: Leptophlebia cupida
Common Name: Borchers Drake
Hook Size: #12-14

Black Quills are not one of our most prolific bugs populating our local rivers, but they are worth making note of. Starting in the first part of May, anglers will find these bugs on and above the water.

This bug consistently shows itself in daylight and because of its size it is significant to trout and trout anglers. Make some room in your fly box for some Borcher’s Drake Parachute imitations and don’t be afraid to fish them blindly as you cover water when no fish are rising.

Look for this three tailed bug to have a very dark colored body and a wing with black splotches. Spinners are clear winged and prefer riffles. The tails are noticeable on these flies as they are longer than most mayfly’s tails – approximately 2 times rather than 1 ½ times the body length.

Tip: The Borcher’s Drake pattern is a great imitation for Black Quills. Borchers also do a good job of suggesting other patterns that are dark in color when in spinner form – no fly box in Michigan should be without a collection of these flies in sizes 12-16.

Learn how to tie the Borcher’s Drake Parachute fly pattern »

Bat Flies

Jerry Regan’s Bat Fly

Latin: Baetisca
Common Name: Bat Fly, Armored Mayfly
Hook Size: # 16-18

Not much is known about this bug, but you should know this: if you fish the Upper Manistee, The Boardman or AuSable Rivers in June, have some. Have you ever experienced fish rising but not being able to determine what it was they were eating? Chances are it was the Bat Fly the fish were keyed in on.

Named for its shape, the Bat Fly has practically no abdomen – a lot like a bat itself; lots of wing and a robust thorax to support them. This bug has three tails with the middle one shorter than the others. Its body color is a golden brown to olive color and is slightly mottled as is the wing of the dun. Spinner’s wings are clear. The spinner is the pattern of most importance to anglers and they often are on the water for weeks becoming an important source of food for fish.

Fished to rising fish in slow to moderate flats in fading light is the best way to describe situations you are most-likely to experience. While I nor clients have been lucky enough to witness fish over twenty inches feeding on these bugs, I will say it is a staple diet of fish up to 18 inches in length.

Tip: Because this isn’t a well-known mayfly, your fishing buddy probably will be unprepared. Make some money on the water by selling him some extra flies or just make him green with envy at the success your small, “body-less” fly is bringing you.

Brown Drakes

Neally’s Brown Drake

Latin: Ephemera Simulans
Common Name: Brown Drakes, Roberts Yellow Drake
Hook Size: #10

The second largest mayfly we experience next to the hex – the Brown Drake is an emergence you don’t want to miss. When they come off, they typically do so heavily and the fish are taking clear advantage of the low-light gravy train. Not a long hatch – typically less than an hour just before dark and sometimes into dark – and for only a few days, trying to nail down and be on the water when they come off is well worth it.

The three tailed nymphs live in both silt in sand, but can be found in mixed sand and gravel areas. The emergers take a while to make the transition into an adult and therefore it’s a good stage to represent with a fly. Duns have a brown body with yellow/cream splotches and medium tan wings with darker splotches. Spinners with their clear wings with dark splotches usually return to the water a few days after emergence to mate over riffle areas where they become easy prey for trout. Because of their size, fishing a brown drake nymph during its hatch window can be effective – down and across with rising/jigging of the rod tip. The same holds true with Isonycias (see below).

Tip: Neally’s Brown Drake Pattern is simply an awesome imitation for this bug. Not only do the fish like it, but in low light, you will too!

Isonychias

Ted’s Tilt-Shoot Iso

Latin: Isonychia Bicolor & Isonychia salderi
Common Name: Slate Wing Dun, Iso, White Glove Howdy, Maroon Duns
Hook Size: 12-14

Found on our rivers in two varieties – Iso’s are one of the most prolific bugs that rivers like the Manistee are enriched with. This fly loves riffles and according to entomology text books, they emerge into an adult after they crawl to the bank. I am confident in telling you that these bugs do float down the river and make the transition from nymph to adult. The fish take notice also. Their size helps make them an important food source and they are known to sometimes emerge in small numbers throughout the day.

Isonychia duns have two legs and can vary in color – from a light olive/gray to medium brown with hints of red (think large Mahogany); their wings are a milky dun color. Spinners often collect in the evening above riffles or any slight break in the water’s surface. Their bodies are much thinner now and are a dark maroon and clear wing fall to the water. These bugs are easy to identify as the front two legs are white/cream in color – pick one off the water and look.

Tip: Realistic looking patterns fished throughout the day – blindly (boon-dogging) can produce some surprising results. While streamer fishing is preferred by many during the light of day, it’s not for everyone. If this is the case, tie on a dun or spinner and work seams on top and be sure to set the hook slowly when you see a lot of trout come up and eat.

Learn how to tie the Tilt-Shoot Isonychia fly pattern »

Gray Drakes

Ted’s Gray Drake Spinner

Latin: Siphlonurus
Common Name: Gray Drake
Size: 10-12

Grey Drakes are a bug that build in prolific numbers above any type of broken water, but are rarely seen on the water as adults. These flies are Gray in color as their name suggests and often hit the water hard giving the fish a predominate choice in food. Like most spinners, look for them to collect in swarms up to two hours prior nightfall.

The spinners have two tails and are easily identified by a white ring around the bottom of their eye. Be ready to fish after dark as the spinners can continue to fall if the air temperatures stay warm.

Tip: A tandem rig of two flies works great – my favorite combo is a #12 Parachute Adams and a Gray Drake Spinner. Use the leading parachute to help you track the two flies and use it as an indicator since rises in broken water can be difficult to detect.

Presentation and Equipment

The Magic Hour

Having the right fly in your box is only part of the equation that is going to make the night on the water memorable. Remember: presentation trumps fly selection.

If you have the right fly but don’t effectively present it to the fish, you are likely to miss out on hooking fish. A little practice during the day to make sure your flies and leaders are turning over, that your mends are proactive and that your casting accuracy is dialed in can pay off later when you might get your chance at rising fish.

Even though all of the flies listed vary in size, your favorite rods in 4 & 5 weight will work just fine. Length is a matter of preference – just make sure you have a rod that will assist you with good line control once it’s on the water. Leaders from 4x-6x are fine and should be at least 9ft in length. With the great mayfly hatches of June come other bugs; the mosquitoes and no-see-ums can be heavy so make sure you have your favorite bug repellent stashed in your vest. Note: Repellent containing DEET will damage leaders, line and other equipment so be careful applying it and be sure to keep it off of the insides of your hands. Even though it’s not the hex hatch, you will still want a headlamp because many of these bugs will still feed fish when it is difficult to see. Having a light makes it not only easy to tie your fly on, but also getting back to your car.

Weather or Not

All rivers have a different hatch calendar – that is the exact times that particular bugs emerge. Mostly dependent on water temperatures, “hatch-windows” can carry-on for weeks if an angler is looking to move to different sections of a river chasing bugs or even change which river to fish.

The weather, it seems, the past number of years has been more unstable and fairly inconsistent day to day through the month of June. Cooler evenings, hotter days, stretches of cool days and/or a mix of all of these has had an effect on what bugs hatch and when. The good news is, when we have the diversity of various bugs emerging at overlapping periods there are several possibilities to catch fish on. The end of May and the month of June is a great time of the year to experience some of the best dry fly fishing this State has to offer – get out there before the hex, the crowds and the dark.

Author’s Note: Most of the fly patterns used in this article are commercially tied and available locally at The Northern Angler, here in Traverse City, Michigan.

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Trout Fishing After the Hex Hatch

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Keep Fishing After the Hex Hatch

[Author’s Note: Last year I wrote an article on “Fishing Before the Hex,” which was intended to give the reader a better insight to the various bugs that emerge in the weeks prior to the hex hatch. This article covers what an angler can expect to find on the water the months following the hex hatch.]

The Hex hatch is what gets not only the larger fish out of their bunkers, but also what brings out more anglers in pursuit of carnivorous fish eating recklessly. When the big bugs are gone, so are the crowds but plenty of fishing opportunities exist. Here is what you can expect to see on the local trout rivers in July and August, where to find them and tips on how to fish them:

Isonychias

Ted's CDC Isonychia Spinner

Latin Name: Isonychia bicolor & Isonychia salderi
Common Name: Iso, White Glove Howdy, Slate Drake
Hook Size: #10-14

Isonychias continue to earn their appreciation amongst anglers as bug populations/densities on certain rivers not only continue to build, but also the time window of when they hatch seems to get larger. The big numbers of Iso’s typically occur in the middle of June, but bugs can be seen through mid-August in the evenings. Don’t expect to find them thick enough to cover the water,but because of their size, it doesn’t take many for the fish to notice them. When they aren’t on the water, a dry fly angler will appreciate the response a well presented Isonychia receives. When you flip your calendar from June to July, leave the Isonychias in your fly box.

Tip: Take your nice Iso pattern and bend the shank sideways making it look like a dead cripple.

Tricos

Rene Harrop's Para Trico

Latin Name: Tricorythodes
Common Name: Trico
Hook Size: #18-24

These are some of the smallest bugs Northern Michigan anglers will find in big numbers with fish actually feeding on them. Just after the nocturnal hex when an angler finds himself staying up late, the trico angler is an early riser – from first light to about noon. The cool evenings and lack of sun will delay the hatch until mid-morning, but when they come off, they typically do in decent numbers.

This mayfly is not known to get the big fish of northern Michigan rising in the bright sun, but the Tricos do however get smaller fish to key in on them and it’s a lot of fun with a lighter rod. Pay close attention to the rises – they are often small dimples in the water as opposed to slurps and even the rare but large fish that comes to snack will leave the smallest evidence on the surface. Look for Tricos to start in early July and extending mostly through August.

Tip: Since they are small, fish them as a trailer behind a larger dry fly that will act as a strike indicator.

Grey Drakes

Ted's Gray Drake Spinner

Latin Name: Siphlonurus
Common Name: Gray Drake
Hook Size: #12-14

Grey Drakes are smaller than their brown and green brothers and really like sections of rivers with gravel, often building in heavy numbers as adults to mate. Target adult spinners and the fish feeding on them in the slick water below the riffles where they hover above to do their mating dance.

These bugs start in mid-June and can extend to mid-July. An easy way to confirm a Gray Drake is to catch one and inspect the eyes – if they are outlined on the bottom with white lines – it’s them. This is the closest mayfly that matches an Adams dry fly pattern.

Tip: Bring your headlamp as you can have action into the dark hours.

Light Cahills

Extended Body Light Cahill Comparadun

Latin Name: Stenomena canadense
Common Name: Cahill (Kay-hill)
Hook Size: #12-14

Light Cahills are one of those bugs that are around for months, but rarely are found in large numbers. My experience with these meaty, cream colored flies suggests they are not a favorite of fish – they will eat other bugs on the water leaving the Cahills. Because of their numbers and their lengthy hatch period, I’m sure to have some in the box whether they are the only bug on the water and/or if the fish do key in on them.

Tip: Have them in your box but make sure fish are taking them – not another insect- before fishing them.

Blue Wing Olives

Gallpup's BWO Cripple

Latin Name:Pseudocloeon
Common Name: BWOs, Baetis, Olives
Hook Size: #18-22

The name Blue Wing Olive and Baetis includes a number of different bugs that are widespread throughout the U.S. and northern Michigan. From winter hatches below tail-waters, to their reputation of emerging only on cool, cloudy and slightly rainy days, anglers in July and August will want some “olives” in their box regardless of whether it’s raining or not. Blue Wing Olives in size 18 – 22 are a good call, and a pattern like Galloup’s BWO cripple is a great choice when fish lock in on them.

Tip: Just like an Adams should be carried in your box at all times, always have a selection of BWOs too.

Ephorons

Ted's Ephoron Emerger

Latin Name: Ephoron Leukon
Common Name: Ephorons, White Flies
Hook Size: #12

Typically hatching in the last hour or two before dark, the Ephoron will emerge heavily and fast, looking similar to snow flurries. This bug makes the transition from nymph to adult to spinner within a few hours before falling spent to the water so you will want all stages of the fly with you. Certain sections of certain rivers experience these in mid-August through September when water temperatures can be high; if it’s too high, forgo fishing as even catch-and-release practices result in a high mortality rate.

Tip: Have an emerger tied on and be prepared for a flurry of action because when the bugs come they come off the water fast. After things slow down, tie on a spinner pattern and wait for the bugs to return. It can all happen quickly so be prepared.

Terrestrials

Terrestrials encompass all sorts of bugs that play a role to the fly fisher. Insects like grasshoppers, ants and beetles are just the most common examples of these so you’ll want a box of them in all sorts of sizes, shapes and colors. I have written an additional article specifically on terrestrial fishing — Read “Terrestrials and Terrestrial Fishing” here »

Hoppers

Variation of Charlie Boy Hopper

This is the most popular insect in this category of bugs, as they should be. When the wind blows them out of overhanging grass and trees or out of the air as they fly, trout often crush them wherever you find the two. Once the mid-morning sun has burned off the dew, fish hoppers on the sunny days through the evening when the wind is at its highest. Hopper fishing is a fun way to fish from late June through mid-September; target the banks with your casts with a plop, then skitter, drag and move them on the water.

Tip: Each day is different on what presentation the fish prefer, but know that hoppers don’t feel at home when on water and they move like it – fish your flies similarly.

Ants

Ted's Flying Ant

These are always around, but usually not in numbers. However what really makes trout go nuts are flying ants – of all sizes. Any angler who has experienced a flying ant hatch has experienced some of their best fishing. Flying ants are the “crack-cocaine” to trout – once they have one, they will do anything to have more of them – even if that means moving into shallow water in bright sun to feed on them.

Tip: Have some flying ants in your box or you might miss out on the best surface activity you will experience in years. Really – it can be an angler’s nirvana.

Beetles

Peacock and Hair Beetle

Beetles are popular with the anglers who relish terrestrial fishing. Small in size and dark in color, they can be hard to track on the water. Fish them to risers that are keyed in on beetles, or fish them as a trailer to a larger fly that works as an indicator.

The size fish these small flies ((#14-20) can convince to eat can be shocking – use light tippet and a good presentation to convince them to eat along with a soft tip rod and smooth playing of the fish to get the fish to hand.

Tip: If you see fish rising but can’t tell what they are taking, look closely for any beetles that might be drifting by but are hard to see.

Foam and Rubber Hatch

Foam Body and Rubber Legs

Big flies like Chernobyl Ants tied with multiple colors of foam and active rubber legs and other natural and synthetic materials do a good job of imitating nothing, but suggest, rather, hoppers, cicadas, and stoneflies performing as a general attractor that looks like a mouthful of protein. These big bugs have a sizable silhouette, and often are enough of a temptation to pull fish out from hiding in the low water and high sun.

Tip: Fish them with and without activity, often in the middle of the river over scattered, submerged timber/structure.

Mice

Deer Hair Mouse Pattern

While it isn’t considered a hatch so to speak, big flies that look like mice imitate the naturals that hurriedly cross the river. Yes, mice do swim, and those nocturnal browns that lie in shallow water will eat the scrambling fur balls as it comes down and across the river. Right at dark and before that cold dewfall hits on the darkest nights are the best conditions for those armed with a stout leader and hook covered in hair and fur. This is also a good way to fish during the hex after the last of the bugs have emerged or floated by for the night. Glow-in-the dark fly lines and a 6 or 7 wt. rod make it easy to cast these flies and land the fish that eat them.

Cast close to the bank and inside of bends and swim that fly down and across to form a wake.

Tip: Set the hook when you feel the fish, NOT when you hear it.

The Other Hex

Recurvata Hex Spinner

Speaking of the last of the hex, the hatches experienced the last few years have been spread out thanks to inconsistent weather. Some bugs – not necessarily in thick numbers, will continue to emerger for a while into mid-July and adult spinners will often be seen on the water before dark, which can make for some great and exciting fishing. In addition to the Hexagenia limbata we are most familiar with, the Hexagenia recurvata is a smaller, darker version of the large mayfly which typically starts a few weeks after the more popular bug is done. Another mayfly that is difficult to predict but can hatch in July and into August is the Golden Drake (Potamanthus) which is similar to a hex, but larger and are more cream colored. Both of these bugs typically hatch in the late afternoon and evening and can bring up fish of all sizes.

Tip: Keep some hex flies with you from mid-June into August. As odd as it may seem, float a natural looking hex pattern in the evening or early morning well after the crowds are gone and watch what happens – you might be pleasantly surprised.

Presentation and Equipment

Having the right fly in your box is only part of the equation that is going to make your time on the water memorable. Remember: presentation trumps fly selection.

Spinner Fall

By understanding where and when the bugs are likely to emerge or fall as adults will greatly improve your chances at hitting the summer bugs. Further, imitating them with the right action can be the difference between hooking up and casting.

When the hex hatch is “over” don’t put your rods away – the next couple of months can still serve up some good fishing. If none of the bugs mentioned above are emerging or falling and if blind fishing the patterns doesn’t work, tie on Royal Coachmans, Stimulators, Patriots and other attractors to break-up the dog-days of summer – it’s a great way to fish while wet-wading your favorite stream or river staying cool and catching fish with flies that suggest rather than imitate.

Don’t abandon the streamer program at this time of year – after a rain, a meaty streamer intruding the space of a trout will trigger that predatory response. As always, practice catch and release while you have the river mostly to yourself after the busy hex season has passed.

To learn more about the various bugs, where and how to fish them, book a trip by calling 231.883.8156 or e-mailing Ted@Current-Works.com.

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