Current Works Guide Service
  • (231) 883-8156
  • ted@current-works.com
  • Book a trip
  • Subscribe to Newsletter
  • Home
  • Guide Trips & More
    • Guide Trips & Pricing
    • Casting Lessons
    • Gift Certificates
    • Book a Trip
  • Fishing Report
  • Fish & Seasons
    • Steelhead
    • Trout
    • Smallmouth Bass
    • Salmon
    • Bluegill / Panfish / Bass
    • Golden Bones / Carp
  • Rivers & Hatches
    • Upper Manistee River
    • Lower Manistee River
    • Betsie River
    • Boardman River
    • Hatch Chart
  • Fly Tying
  • Articles
  • Gallery
  • About
    • About Your Guide
    • Testimonials
    • Newsletter
    • Area Information

Salmon

Keeping Spey Fishing Simple

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Spey Fishing and Casting  In Michigan

 

The title of this article might be a misnomer, since spey fishing, a minor segment of the fly fishing industry, has grown with lots of equipment options, specialties and styles, but also because of the never-ending supply of suggestions and opinions about the sport. This article is just that — some of my opinions to help those of you who are either newbies or novices to two-handed casting/fishing. Hopefully these suggestions will make the experience not only easier to get started, but less confusing and intimidating.

Brief History

Spey Fishing For Steelhead

Spey fishing was originally developed in Scotland on the River Spey where long casts were required but little room for a back cast existed. Long rods were employed and a unique style of casting developed that allowed long casts with short back casts. Today, this method – spey casting – is commonly referred to as two-handed casting. The predominate presentation used with this method has typically been a wet fly swing – casting at a downstream angle and letting the fly “swim” across the river as the current brings it to the downstream position below the angler.

The advantages of using these longer rods and “organized” roll casts goes beyond making long casts with short back casts – they include: requiring a minimal effort to cast long distance, excellent line control, leverage to cast large flies with heavy sink-tips, and overall efficiency.

Today

Spey Flies for Michigan

Within the last 30 years, North American anglers adopted this technique and originally applied it to steelhead and salmon fishing, the most common species targeted with two-handed rods. Most places where flies are presented on the swing for just about any species (trout, smallmouth bass) are applicable for two-handed casting/fishing – using these rods just makes it easier and efficient once learned. The original “spey” flies with their slim profile and often wispy materials are still available today and remain effective, however they have been combined with various streamer designs, tying materials and techniques offering a great selection of fly patterns to choose from for a number of species.

Considerations & Suggestions for Learning Two-Handed Casting

Spey Casting Lessons

Avoid Intimidation. There is a lot of equipment out there, lots of jargon, shop slang and other terms that might seem confusing, overwhelming and even contradictory – it is easy to step back and question whether or not to try two-handed casting but it’s like many things that are new to us. Remember the first time you used a computer? Choose one or two sources of information that you trust to get started and consult those sources with questions you have about the sport. These sources could be an experienced friend or a fly shop with an understanding and experienced staff you trust.

Choose a Casting Style. This is where your trust in the sources mentioned above can first help. There are a number of different casting styles with two-handed casting/fishing – Classic, Skagit, and Scandinavian are the most common. Each style offers pros and cons. The species you intend to target, the rivers you are most likely to fish, and the flies you will use should help make this decision easier.

Learn that Style. Now that you have picked a style, learn it. Too often I have seen anglers bounce from one style to another without having a solid grasp of either method. The long, fluid motions often used with the longer lines of Classic does not lend itself to Skagit style, nor does the abrupt bottom-hand casting of Scandinavian casting work well the other two styles. Stick with one style and become proficient with it before experimenting with other styles.

Practice. You probably don’t get a chance to fish enough, so the few times you can hit your favorite river when conditions are ideal is no time to learn how to cast a two-handed rod – it’s the time to fish. Spending time in the off-season on rivers, lakes or even the lawn can assist in learning and provide the muscle memory, ability and efficiency required to take advantage of two-handed casting/fishing. Keep in mind that while floating lines are typically used when learning, as they are more forgiving with bad technique, they don’t cast the same as a sink tip. If you intend on fishing with sink-tip lines, begin practicing with that line setup once you can execute the fundamentals of casting with a floating line.

Spey Casting and Fishing Books and DVDsPractice Makes Permanent. Make sure that you are practicing the right thing, not reinforcing the poor technique. There are lots of resources to help you learn the fundamentals of casting, including DVDs, books and instructors. Find what works best for you and once you know what you are supposed to do, practice and learn the right things, not the wrong. I personally found a combination of all three resources worked well for me, and as I continue to advance with my technique, I often consult the same resources.

Learn the Same Length. When initially learning to cast, determine what amount of line is ideal to load the rod while offering you control of the line through the cast. Each time you will find that casting the same amount of line will be much easier to control vs. a varying length thanks to the muscle memory you have developed by repetitively making the same motion with a fixed amount of line. Once determined, make it easy to identify the right amount of line by marking your line at your hand with a permanent marker. Should you choose to shoot the line on the forward delivery, go for it – this step takes place after the crucial line placement, but remember it’s easier to learn to walk before running.

Two-Handed Rods vs. Switch Rods. A two-handed rod is designed to be cast with two hands for specific applications and presentations. A “switch rod” is a rod that allows you to fish it with one hand or two; one hand while doing conventional overhead fly casting or you can “switch” and use two-handed methods. Both rods require two hands to cast, but the switch rod is no replacement for a two-handed rod. With that being said, there are applications for a switch rod that make them a better choice over two-handed rods. Two-handed rods often require a significant amount of the line to help load the rod to cast. If fishing smaller rivers or making smaller casts, the longer, two-handed rod isn’t necessarily the best choice whereas the switch rod often lends itself to smaller bodies of water and shorter casts. Further, two-handed rods typically cast longer distances, heavier flies and longer sink-tip sections.

Spey LinesFind a Line, Then Buy It. This can be the one of the more difficult, confusing, timely and often expensive aspects of learning to use a two-handed rod. Single-hand rods have a line weight designated for each rod – that is a 6 wt. rod casts a 6 wt. line. While there can be a few exceptions, it generally holds true. With two-handed rods the line weight printed on the rod is not a determining factor for which weight to use.

Two-handed lines are much heavier than their brethren. An 8 wt. line for a single-handed rod will not work on an 8 wt. two-handed rod. Two-handed rods often have a “grain-window” meaning it will cast a number of different line sizes (measured in grains) that load the rod. Each person has a preference for how the rod feels and the best performing line size. Fly size, style and amount of sink-tip are all factors in narrowing down which line is best for your rod. Confusing, I know.

Buying a line, trying it and finding out it isn’t what you hoped can be expensive – especially after a number of attempts. You can ask what others like on your rod, but that’s what they like and there are typically variances in everyone’s opinion. But asking can help establish a starting point. Fly shops dedicated to spey fishing often have a demo kit consisting of a number of fly lines for you try on your rod before you buy the line. Think: “Test Drive.” Another way is to try lines that your friends own. Once you have identified which line is best for you, buy it with confidence.

Spey License PlateLearn Four Casts. As technique, equipment and styles for two-handed rods developed, so have casts. Still, there are some basics I think one should learn which will prove effective under most situations: Single Spey, Double Spey, Snake Roll and Snap-T/Circle Spey. Because wind direction varies as does our position in river, it suggested that you learn to make all four casts with your left and right hand on the top fore grip to keep your back cast downwind of us – with gusts of wind, and sharp hooks the ability to make your casts safely is just good thinking.

Speyclave. Two-handed anglers are often dedicated members of the fishing community who not only like to fish, but choose to do it in a particular manner. As such, they tend to communicate their lingo, jargon, share their experiences and what seems to be never ending supply of opinions – some good, some not necessarily so. One format for this sharing is through Speyclaves – one or two-day events which are organized near a river with manufacturer representatives, guest speakers/instructors, and anglers like you. These are great venues to learn more about the sport, techniques, and demo/try lines and rods – check out for more information about a Speyclave happening near you at www.speypages.com/speyclave.

Confused?

Go back to the first suggestion which is to have a resource or two who you can consult with. Most people find it’s worth learning to cast and fish a two-handed rod as it’s similar to learning how to fly fish all over again, bringing with it the excitement we once had when we first picked up that single-hand rod. Remember, when it is all said and done, all we are trying to do is feed a fly to a fish. In this case, we are using a rod that requires two hands to cast it. Simple, isn’t it? At least in concept. Good luck and have fun.

double spey, learn to cast a spey rod, learning a fly line, practicing spey casting, single spey, snake roll, snap-t, spey cast principles, spey casting, spey casting lessons, spey casting style, spey rod vs switch rod, speyclave, trying spey lines, two-handed fly rods, what spey line do I buy

Tips For Better Streamer Fishing

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Streamer Fly Fishing For TroutStreamer fishing has really evolved over the past 15 years, from fishing small patterns like Mickey Finns and Grey Ghosts fished swung and quickly stripped back on floating lines, to flies commonly ranging from 4-6 inches long, often with lots of bulk, a large profile, shimmer and flash, weight and other accessories and fished on a heavy sink-tips. By doing so, we take big flies to big fish and break-up those periods where surface action is nil but we still want success on the water.

This is not the “gentleman’s” way to present a fly. Often, this presentation triggers a pure territorial response, getting the fish to eat; other times, they just want to eat something big and go back under a log for a while. That’s how they get bigger. This isn’t necessarily a new style of fishing for many, for others it is. Regardless of your experience or the species you cast a streamer to (trout, salmon, steelhead, smallmouth bass), the following tips are suggestions for improving your streamer fishing and scoring big.

Mix it up

Streamers

Fish can be particular from one day to the other and even throughout the day – not so much to fly sizes, but color and movement. Anyone who has been fishing on “the day” knows that streamer fishing can be some of the most exhilarating and successful ways to catch big fish. But it can turn on and off quickly and/or the fish can have an attitude change and decide something else looks good. Sunlight can make a fly look different, so if the light changes, consider how your once-hot fly might appear in the new conditions and change it if need to be.

Mix up not only your patterns with respect to their colors, size, profile, action, amount of weight, but also how you fish them: faster, slower, deeper, jig-like, lots of pause/suspension, quickly, jerkily; in the heavy structure, in the middle of the river, perhaps the inside seams with little structure. Mix it up, look for a behavioral pattern and always assess. The more you fish the more you will develop your favorite patterns for certain conditions. Let your gut dictate what you should try, but don’t be stubborn and stick with something that isn’t working.

Don’t Recast

Streamer Fishing Tips for Trout

If your cast fails to hit the target and falls a little short, rather than pick it up and attempt to get that extra 2 feet of length, let it go and fish it – that is, unless it’s going right into a snag or something else ominous. Here’s why: If you pull that fly out, you may have pulled out of the water just as a fish was about to smash it. Further, if you recast it will you really hit the target the second time? Lastly, when you pull the fly out to recast, you often spook fish and alert them that something isn’t right so your second cast comes through disturbed water with an educated fish in it. Make your cast and fish it out.
 

Feel The Fish

Streamer Fishing Tips for Salmon

Set the hook when you feel the fish, not see the fish eat. It has happened too many times – a brown trout into the mid-20s or a 15-pound salmon comes up to eat, mouth opens and the fly rips through the water thanks to a premature hook set. Strike one – you’re out. Keep that fly moving, and when you feel the tug, set the hook as hard as the equipment will allow you to. If you do everything right, the hook fails to stick and the fly comes up and out of the water, cast it right back in there immediately. The fish is typically committed and is now pissed that they ate but didn’t get it in their mouth and are looking around for the “escapee.” I have witnessed fish chasing and eating a fly a number of times before it all connects and the fish is on. Really, cast it in their again and move the fly.

Present Your Fly, Not Your Line & Leader

Streamer Presentation

If fishing with a streamer, you want your fly to be what the fish see, not your line and/or leader. Because we often use such short, stout leaders to dark color sink-tips, we can do things incorrectly with ease. Since fish mostly look upstream, cast your fly at an angle to the river that will keep your fly moving slightly across the current and broadside, exposing the fly to more fishy looking water. With streamer fishing being a predator/prey scenario, keep in mind that the prey (the fly) will use the current of the river flow to escape the predator (fish) rather than move upstream and fight the current to escape the danger. When the cast gets swept downstream and turns to go upstream, strip it back upstream once or twice, but not in completely – it’s time to recast.

When we cast the correct angle, we need to be sure we keep the fly moving the right direction but not too swiftly where the fly is streaking across and downstream too fast and without enticing action. To help with this, mending goes a long way to slow the speed and present more of the fly to good looking structure and hopefully fish, too.

Multi-Task

You have two eyes – use them both. Keep one eye on your fly and your line and how it is moving through the water, adding mends, looking for response from fish and avoiding snags. With the second eye, look downstream for your next target. Rather than cast out immediately after you strip your fly back in, it might be prudent to move a little downstream before casting so the fly gets as close to the structure as possible.

Choose Your Leader

Streamer Leader Recipe

Use a short leader, not a long one with sink-tips. The sinking section of the line is used to penetrate the water column and present the fly at the depth we desire. A short leader keeps the fly close to the sinking line, whereas a long leader can end up riding higher in the column due in part to the current forces and any buoyancy characteristics of the fly. I prefer a leader no longer than 5 ft. in length.

Use a long leader, not a short one with floating line (7 to 9 feet). We do this for the opposite reason as above. If we want the fly to sink and get deep, we need enough leader that will allow separation of fly from floating line. Make sure the fly has some weight to it when using a floating line, unless you aren’t looking to fish it deep.
 
 
 

Keep It Moving

Streamer Fishing Tips for Smallmouth Bass

As we strip that fly through the water, yet again, sometimes that big fish appears from nowhere tracking the fly. Too often anglers stop moving the fly to let the fish “catch-up.” Don’t – keep it moving! By stopping, it’s typically a game-over situation as the fish recognizes something is wrong and goes back to where he came from – why would something fleeing for its life just give up? Anglers’ shoulders slump, jaw opens and some profanity slips out.

Keep the fly moving — maybe slower or more erratically to entice the bite, but keep it moving. It’s not a guarantee that the fish will eat but you should know there are no guarantees in the sport just experience to learn from. As such, sometimes smallmouth bass like the fly stopped when they follow it. Try it – if it doesn’t work after a few attempts of pausing it, go back to keeping it moving.

big streamers for trout, fly fishing, flyfishing, leader recipe for streamer fishing, leaders, presenting streamers, rivers, salmon, sink-tips, smallmouth bass, Streamer fishing for trout, streamer patterns, streamers, trophy trout streamers

Tips for Fighting and Landing Fish

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Fighting Fish - Tips to Help You Land Fish

 

We all fish for different reasons, but one thing remains certain for all of us – when we hook a fish, we want to land it. Whether it’s a trophy steelhead you’ve been determined to catch for years or an 8-inch brook trout, there are certain principles to understand and fundamental skills to use when on the river. Here are some pointers I have picked up through the years by doing, observing and teaching which will increase your chances of telling a fish story that doesn’t start with, “You should have seen the one that got away.”

Under Pressure

Fighting Fish - Keeping a Tight Line

We have all heard it – keep a tight line on the fish. This holds true for almost every conceivable fishing situation – maintain tension and keep the slack out. Not doing so increases two potential pitfalls: 1. Pressure on the hook keeps it in the fish – hopefully buried into the bend of the hook. With slack in the line, the hook can literally fall out of the entry point leaving you with slack line and disgusted look on your face. 2. The longer the fish, the more distance they can move their head. This back-and-forth action coupled with lighter line is similar to how you break thread or a line in your hand – you start with slack and then forcefully jerk it. Think about it – do you pull evenly and smoothly to intentionally break a line? Maintain tension to help prevent the line from snapping.

Being Smooth

Maintain a tight line by reeling and pulling with the rod, but do it smoothly. Have you ever seen a large bull cow with a ring in its nose? Its purpose is to allow the handler to lead the bull around: smoothly draw it in a direction and it will follow, but if yanked or pulled hard it often violently moves in the opposite direction. The same is true with fish. In fact, you can almost make a case for Newton’s Third Law of Physics: for every action there is an equal but opposite reaction – the harder you pull on a fish in one direction, it often wants to go in the other direction that much more. Reel smoothly and bring the fish to you or to a place downstream where you intend to land it.

Fish Judo

Fighting - Fish Judo

Hooked fish are often easy to steer and control because you have them hooked in the leading part of its anatomy – the mouth. As long as you keep that head moving in the right direction, you have a better chance of dictating and controlling the fight and keeping emotions under control. But, not always. Often the fish tumbles, jumps or quickly changes directions and gets his head going in the opposite direction you want. When this happens the fish is in control and often heads for cover/structure, which more often than not here in Michigan means logs.

Rather than pulling straight back with rod in the opposite direction the fish is headed (which, with larger species only infuriates them more – remember Newton’s Third Law?) – use “Fish Judo” which, in essence, is using their energy to your advantage. With a low rod, lead them away from the ominous structure by pulling the fish to the side, favoring its intended direction and steer it away.

How Much Is Enough?

There can be a fine line between too much pressure and not enough. Often, it isn’t enough. Truly. When anglers hold the rod tip straight up while fighting the fish, they often do so to keep the slack out, but are putting very little pressure on the fish. Does it seem like you’re applying serious pressure or that the rod is maxed out? You might be surprised as I was when my eyes were opened during a tarpon fishing trip.

Try this experiment/exercise: Get a friend (better if it’s a fellow angler) and pull 25 feet of line and leader through the rod. Have your friend pull back on the rod with the tip up and maintain pressure while you hold the end of the leader. How much pressure do you feel? If this isn’t scientific enough for you then get some type of weight scale like a boga grip and tie the line to it. Repeat the experiment and read the scale and read the results. Change places with your friend and repeat — the scale readings will give you a better idea of how much pressure you are applying. Further, move the rod tip down closer to horizontal and see how that affects the amount of pressure on the scale. Remember – it’s the snap or jerk of the line that is more accountable for breaking rather than smooth pressure which is why equipment too, plays a role in protecting lines when applying pressure, i.e., a smooth drag and a rod tip that flexes and acts as a shock absorber.

The Kiss of Death

Fighting - Kiss of Death

The time, in my opinion, when a fish is most likely to “spit the hook” and send the hook back to you is when it’s down stream, facing you, and shaking its head violently. I hate it. And it happens often. When this occurs, we as anglers often have the rod tip pointed up and the force of the water brings the fish to the surface, thrashing. As soon as you see this happen – or better yet – starting to happen, move your rod down to a horizontal position and to the side furthest away from the fish, creating the maximum angle between your rod tip and the fish. By doing so you gain additional continual pressure on the hook through the headshaking as the current assists by putting a downstream bend in the line. Also, this lowered, sideways pressure encourages the fish to get its head down in the water column where you can tire the fish out instead of holding on and hoping.

Fighting Fish - The One that Got Away

“Let him go, let him go!”

Some days when guiding I seem to say this more than others. When a fish is making a run and is in charge, let him go. By holding your reel handle or grabbing the line, only bad things happen — and it’s usually a fish lost because of line breaking or flies pulling out. When a fish runs, trust your drag setting (you did adjust it at the start of the day didn’t you?) and let him go while incorporating some of the pointers mentioned above.

Reel Fast

If you don’t get the opportunity to fish much and are a little slow at reeling in – practice at home. Put your reel on the bottom section of your rod and just practice “air-reeling.” Make your reeling faster and smother by keeping your elbow and forearm at a 90-degree angle to the face of the reel and using a circular wrist motion to wind – if not, your reeling will be jerky and definitely not as fast.

Water Survey

Fighting Fish - Survey the Water for Potential Obstacles

This often happens sub-consciously, but not always. While fishing, you are reading water to make the best presentation of your ability to the water most likely to be holding fish. Through this process take stock of structure, depth, overhanging trees and water depth. By doing so, when you hook a fish in that particular location, you know where you need to keep that fish from going and where a good location is to land a fish, while remaining safe (and dry).

Giving Them the Wood

Fighting Fish - Give 'Em The WoodSometimes a fish gets the upper hand on you – that is they are going to break you off on some type of structure or go around the river bend, etc. , and there simply isn’t much you can do – except, “Give ‘em the wood.” This last-ditch effort to get the fish to hand is done by applying the maximum power of the rod through the butt section and trying to slow down, turn, or stop the fish – something to disrupt the pending course of events and keep the fish on the line. By doing this you are taking your equipment to the maximum – testing the strength of rods, tippets and knots – but if you don’t you will lose the fish. Think of this as an all or nothing move – meaning, the fish is going to win/get away unless you stop them so, give ‘em the wood.

The Capture

Fighting Fish - Getting the Fish in the Net

Some like to use nets, others like to grab fish with their hand or landing glove. Regardless, you need to get the fish close to you first and second, the grab or sweep of the net needs to be done swiftly and at the right time. When the fish is close, have your rod down low and lift its head up smoothly – but stay committed with lifting until the fish is in the net. If fishing with a friend or guide, this is the time they sweep the net under the fish – head first, with confidence, not hesitation. If using a landing hand on larger species like steelhead or salmon, execute a “Heron Grab” which is done by plunging your hand downward onto the fish’s wrist (the skinny part of the tail) and hold on firmly. Be sure to communicate during the process or the communication after the failed attempt will be colorful and often will test any friendship. If you are by fishing by yourself, get the fish close and have your rod on the opposite side of where you intend to land it. If fishing for smaller fish like a trout, gently grab the fish around its middle or slide the net under it. Never bring a fish up onto the shore or muddy bank as sand, silt and other debris will get into their gill plates, often killing the fish within a few days.

Keep in mind we are out fishing for fun, whereas the fish – once hooked – are fighting for survival. Even though you might follow all of these suggestions and tips as well as some of your own, sometimes it isn’t enough and the fish wins. Rather than be pissed-off – tip your hat in appreciation of that fish and get ready for the next chance at landing what could be even bigger and better; use the tips for fighting and landing fish above to help make that happen.

drag, fighting fish, fly reel, jumping fish, kiss of death fly fishing, landing big fish on a fly rod, landing fish on a fly rod, log jams, use a net to land fish, using a fly rod to catch fish

Fishing Egg Patterns

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012
Egg Box

Box of Eggs in Various Color Combinations

Matching the Hatch is often associated with trout fishing, but not necessarily with Steelhead fishing. Imitating the specific natural insects fish key in on is important to the success of the trout angler however this same approach should be used by steelhead anglers looking to imitate their prey’s primary food source – eggs.

Egg flies have been used for decades not only because they are easy to tie or inexpensive to buy, but more importantly because they are effective. With increased angling pressure, water conditions, as well as factors only known by the steelhead themselves, they often become selective on size and color. This article’s goal is to provide you with a better understanding of what egg to use and when. Of course it’s not guaranteed, but put others’ experience in your corner to optimize your steelhead fishing and hopefully a well-earned steelhead into your net.Egg Fly Patterns for Great Lakes Steelhead

Matching the Hatch

Egg Patterns for Trout and Steelhead

Regardless of when you fish steelhead and what egg you are trying to imitate, know that the eggs themselves change. After being in the water – free drifting or trapped in a selected gravel bed – eggs become less colorful, a bit translucent and eventually opaque. Depending on the timing of your fishing trip in relation to the “egg drop”, color plays a large factor and there are two ways to determine what is ideal:

1. Experience. Fishing and having certain successes or failures can help you Egg - Real Salmon Eggsdefine color combos for particular times. Keeping notes in a journal can help keep track of what can easily be forgotten between seasons and a few beers.

2. When fishing rivers that have a respectable trout population, use their selectiveness as an indication of the right color and size. Catching trout? Proceed. Not catching tout? Change your egg pattern.

When fishing for steelhead in the fall directly behind spawning salmon – color and size becomes more important and is where “matching the hatch” is key. In Egg - Wet Nuke Eggthis case, the eggs are often fresh, having a more realistic color to them.

Want to know what a real salmon egg looks like? Look on the ground at access sites or near fish cleaning stations to match your egg patterns – its not that much different than catching a mayfly out of the air and matching it to a fly in your box when trout fishing. The same holds true in the spring when imitating natural steelhead eggs.

Fall Steelhead

Egg - Fall Steelhead

 There are many theories as to “Why do steelhead enter our rivers in the fall?”, but there is no clear, general accepted theory. Some think curious steelhead follow the salmon as they run up the river to spawn, others hypothesize that they are genetically programmed to enter rivers at that time of year. While these might be partially or absolutely correct, I prescribe to the theory that fall weather and wind conditions bring steelhead close to river mouths, and the scent of pheromones and millions of salmon eggs drifting down the river triggers them to follow a gravy train of protein. This is why the water downstream of  the salmon tend to be best for anglers looking for steelhead and having a box filled with egg flies will keep you prepared.

 

Egg - Rag Pattern

Rag Egg – Clown Color

With this in mind, I like fishing for fall steelhead, the majority of the time with two egg flies; one larger, brighter pattern as an attractor and a second, smaller, more realistic pattern imitating what is coming down the river. Often the top positioned fly is a multicolored pattern like a Clown or two-colored Rag Egg if not a Nuke Egg. I saw my first clown egg while fishing steelhead in Alaska in the mid-1990s and thought it was a joke – it was about the size of a quarter and included more colors than a small package of Crayola crayons. But with time, understanding, and some luck, I have learned that this multi-color configuration and approach can be significant to my success fishing for steelhead right here in Michigan. It’s a good idea to run this egg pattern in a large size when the water is full of leaves
when a smaller pattern could easily be lost in all of the
drifting debris.

Egg - Nuke Egg

Nuke Egg

Most anyone fishing steelhead in Michigan recognizes the Nuke Egg as an effective pattern that is an improvement over the original GloBug. The Nuke can be tied as an attractor or natural imitator depending on size and color. One of its key attributes is the veil or shroud of yarn that covers the nucleus of the pattern giving it a natural, transparent look when wet. The advantage of the Nuke Egg is its exacting nature to imitate the natural eggs drifting down the river. Some of these color combinations include: Egg over Sockeye, Pink Lady over Shrimp Pink, Apricot Supreme over Steelhead Orange, Salmon Egg over Chartreuse or Nuke Egg everyone’s favorite – spring or fall: Oregon Cheese over Steelhead Orange. Worthy attractor colors are Chartreuse over Flame, or Flame over Cerise.

Egg - Sucker Spawn

Sucker Spawn

Steelhead in the Great Lakes perform their annual spawning each year during the spring. The largest numbers of fish are in the river sometime in March and April depending on water levels and temperatures. During this time period, the river is also used by walleyes, resident rainbow trout, suckers and carp (typically in that order with steelhead spawning the same time as rainbow trout) as their spawning area. As a result, millions of eggs drift down the river becoming a significant food source for all fish in the river, notably steelhead. The successful angler is often fishing with an egg pattern best imitating the natural egg – its color and shape in addition to how it relates to water conditions.

Spring Steelhead

Egg Patterns For SteelheadSpring water conditions are often found to have a stain or be quite high and dirty. When this is the case, I have found patterns larger than naturals to be the most effective. Egg patterns like Rags, Nukes and Glo Bugs tied in various colors and almost as big as a dime, I think, do a better job of grabbing a fish’s attention rather than imitate the food source. But those times of the spring when the absence of rains and thaws leave the water with good clarity, size and color becomes significant. Patterns like sucker spawn in pale yellow imitate that of both suckers and walleye, where the natural characteristics of Nuke Eggs and Glo Bugs in various colors and hues can be identical to those of natural steelhead eggs drifting down the river.

A well stocked fly box for trout fishing is important to success and it’s no different for steelhead. Learn your favorite river, the spawning times of the various species, and what works in particular conditions and key in on what steelhead are eating. Having egg patterns in various sizes, colors and shapes and learning when to use them and why can be the difference between catching steelhead on a consistent basis and catching a steelhead.

Learn how to tie 4 different egg patterns – go to the Fly Tying page and select the pattern you want to tie.

 

Egg - Steelhead

egg fly patterns, egg patterns for steelhead, glo bug pattern, glo-bugs, imitating natural eggs, match the hatch with eggs, nuke eggs, salmon, steelhead, trout

Nuke Egg Fly

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 13, 2012
Nuke Egg Fly Pattern

Nuke Egg

The Nuke Egg is one of the first egg fly patterns to be considered “advanced” – that is, one that goes beyond the single dimension and solid-looking Glo Bug. The veil of egg yarn over the nucleus is what gives the Nuke Egg its translucent appearance and separates this fly from so many other egg patterns.

The color combinations are endless, but some favorites are: Chartreuse over Flame, or Flame over Cerise – both attractors with realistic combinations including: Egg over Sockeye, Pink Lady over Shrimp Pink, Apricot Supreme over Steelhead Orange, Salmon Egg over chartreuse or everyone’s favorite, spring or fall: Oregon Cheese over Steelhead Orange.

Nuke Egg Fly Pattern - Wet

Wet Nuke Egg

You can choose to use a variety of materials for the nucleus including: dubbing, chenille, Braids, or McFly Foam. By mixing this material up, you can create unique patterns with just the right color or the little sparkle you have been looking for.

Depending on water conditions, whether you are imitating steelhead or salmon eggs and the stage of the egg itself (how long they have been in the water), play around with how sparse you tie this pattern to achieve the right size as well as color and translucency. Notice how natural this fly looks when wet.

This pattern design is responsible for bringing a lot of fish to the net through the years -be sure to have a nice selection of your own in your fly box.

Nuke Egg Fly Recipe

Nuke Egg 0

Hook :          TMC 105 #6-10, TMC 2457 #8-12 Gamakatsu C14S #8-12
Thread:         Uni 6/0  – Lt. Cahill or color to match veil
Nucleus:        Egg Yarn – Steelhead  Orange
Veil:             Egg Yarn – Apricot Supreme

Tying Instructions

Nuke Egg - Step 1Step 1. Put hook in Vise and wrap a thread base from eye back to just above hook point.

Nuke Egg - Step 2Step 2. Take a very small amount of yarn for the nucleus – aprox. the diameter of your whip
finisher handle. Lay parallel to the hook shank and tie down with a few wraps in the center.

Nuke Egg - Step 3Step 3. Hold both ends of nucleus upward and trim very close to the hook shank – aprox. 1/8”.

Nuke Egg - Step 4Step 4. Take 1 inch of veil yarn – the amount/thickness should be aprox.
4 times the amount that of what you used for the nucleus and tie in so
yarn extends forward. Be sure to evenly surround the hook shank with yarn.

Nuke Egg - Step 5Step 5. Trim yarn so it is aprox. the length of the hook shank from the tie in point.

Nuke Egg - Step 6Step 6. Carefully manipulate the veil material backwards – around the thread – evenly surrounding the nucleus.

Nuke Egg - Step 7Step 7. Wrap thread a few times between the veil and the hook eye to make
sure veil wants to stay backwards covering the nucleus and then whip finish.

 

Print This Page
egg pattern for salmon, egg yarn, how to tie egg patterns for steelhead, nucleus egg pattern, nuke egg, nuke fly, steelhead, transparent egg pattern, veil
123
Guide Trips - Fly Fishing Float Trips

Guide Trips & Pricing

Gift Certificate

Gift Certificates

Testimonials

Lessons - Learn to Fly Cast or Improve

Casting Lessons

Fish & Seasons

Fall Steelhead Manistee River

Steelhead

Fly fishing for smallmouth bass Manistee River and Northern Michigan Lakes

Smallmouth Bass

King Salmon Fly Fishing - Betsie River Near Traverse City

Salmon

Trout Fishing Manistee River near Traverse City Michigan

Trout

Bluegill, Panfish and Bass Fly Fishing on Local Lakes Near Traverse City

Bluegill / Panfish / Bass

Carp Fishing West Grand Traverse Bay

Golden Bones / Carp

Ted Kraimer • Current Works, LLC • PO Box 333 • Traverse City, Michigan 49685 • (231) 883-8156

© 2024 Current Works, LLC — All rights reserved
  • Home
  • Guide Trips & Pricing
  • Fishing Report
  • Fish & Seasons
  • Rivers & Hatches
  • Fly Tying
  • Articles
  • Gallery
  • About
  • Sitemap