Steelhead

Dressing for Michigan Fly Fishing

Posted by Ted Kraimer - September 9, 2013

Three seasons in one day…. and being prepared.

Fly fishing is supposed to be fun, and being comfortable by being prepared for weather conditions is paramount. In Michigan we not only have a variety of species to fish for, but we have four distinct seasons to fish in. And it isn’t unrealistic to experience two or even three seasons in a single day! Below are some thoughts on how to dress and what to bring to keep you comfortable and safe while on your Michigan fly fishing trips.

Spring & Fall

The spring and fall offer great fishing for steelhead. Temps start cold and often warm up through the day. You need to be prepared in case the weather man is wrong and it never warms up, but also have the versatility in case he is right.

The steelhead above and below were caught the same day. Dressing in layers made it easy to stay comfortable when it was cold and later, warm.

Base Layer. Always start with a base layer of long underwear. This layer not only helps with insulation since it is close to your skin, but more importantly it serves to manage moisture, limiting heat loss through wet clothing caused by perspiration or rain. In the cooler months I don’t consider this layer an option but rather, a requirement.

Mid Layer. Layer with comfortable clothing that offers some insulation based on the forecast – a wool sweater, fleece pull over or vest – something that can easily be taken off or added as the temps change throughout the day. Wearing fleece pants is a nice insulative compliment to what you might be wearing above the waist. Having a fleece or other jacket (like a soft-shell) can serve as both a mid-layer and an outer
layer depending on wind or rain conditions.

Outer Layer. This layer is just as important as the previous two. We need to be prepared for wind and rain because if you get wet and cold, you’re done. Make sure you have a waterproof rain jacket/parka. Umbrellas and fly fishing don’t work well together, so bring a hard-shell style jacket to keep the wind and rain out while you fish.

On those cool days where it just seems to rain the entire day, even the best rain jacket isn’t enough. I have found that if you wear a soft-shell style jacket under the hard-shell jacket, you will be surprised at how comfortable and dry you are at the end of the day. This is by far the best one-two combination I have found in these conditions.

Wearing waders is a great way to keep the wind and rain off of your bottom half even if you aren’t wading. Fishing from the boat in rain pants/bibs will keep the wind out and heat in while keeping you dry if it rains.

A hat can make a big difference in your comfort level regardless of how goofy it might look.

Accessories. Ball caps are commonly worn by anglers, as they shield the sun from the eyes, helping to see in the water. They also deflect casts gone wrong. They also keep the sun off your head.

A fleece or wool hat is very handy when the mercury in the thermometer doesn’t seem to budge. So much heat is lost through the head and neck that this easy-to-bring item can make a huge difference.

Quality wool socks help keep your feet warm and dry – just make sure you’re wearing waders or other footwear to keep them dry. A pair of winter boots can go a long way on those cold mornings when fishing from the boat.

Summer

Dressed for success: u.v. protection from a light shirt, Buff gaiter, hat, and glasses with breathable waders.

Staying cool and keeping the sun off of our bodies is the strategy when days are longer, temps are higher and the sun is brighter.

Fishing shirts made of quick drying materials provide a level of UV protection/sunblock while they wick moisture away from the body, helping to keep cool. Believe it or not, long sleeve shirts of this construction are cooler than wearing a short sleeve T-shirt made of cotton.

Shorts are fine, but the sun shines on your skin and warms it up. Long pants made of light quick-drying material not only keep the sun off of you, but also have the added benefit keeping insects from biting.

If warm out, anglers like to wet-wade parts of the river and often use a swim suit combined with supportive wading shoes or sandals, or even their wading boots with Guard Socks. If fishing in the boat on a mild summer day, some find it hard to beat sneakers or trail shoes.

Cool customers – ready to spend a summer day fishing by wearing light, protective and breathable clothing.

Wide brim hats help keep the sun off the face and also deflect any errant casts. Personal sun shields like a Buff have become popular because of their effectiveness and versatility providing protection around the neck, face and ears.

Often during the trout season we start a guide trip off during the warmest part of the day and stay out past dark when temps drop. Having an extra layer for when the sun goes down and the dew and temperature fall can go a long ways.

Always have rain gear because even though it wasn’t in the forecast, rain can happen at any time – it’s Michigan.

General Notes & Thoughts

Say no to cotton (and linen).

Cotton kills. While comfortable in dry conditions, when cotton garments get wet, they stay wet. Cotton clings to your skin not only making it uncomfortable, but also potentially dangerous in cold weather. Conduction, evaporation and convection combine with wind for major heat loss. Jeans and sweatshirts are made of cotton. And cotton socks? Save them for home or gym and use wool. Hypothermia happens when the body’s core temperature drops just a few degrees. It doesn’t have to be very cold to experience this potential life threatening condition, so stay dry and warm.

Use what you got. If you happen to be a winter outdoor enthusiast like a skier/snow boarder, consider wearing some of the same clothes or, at least use the same strategy, as far as layering. This might save you some money and will help to keep you comfortable.

Water resistant is not water proof. Cardboard is water resistant and we know how long that lasts in wet conditions. Seek external layers/raingear that are waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex is a good thing, and in my opinion, worth it.

Notice which angler is holding the fish? Stay away from wearing bright clothing.

Bright colors are fish repellent. Bright clothing like hunter’s orange or a yellow rain jacket, do a good job of scaring fish in clear water and bright conditions – try to blend in with the environment by wearing subdued colors. However, if you’re fishing during the firearm deer season (Nov. 15-30th), err on the side of safety and wear some orange.

Let it Breathe. When wading, quality breathable waders are key to staying dry & comfortable – cooler in warm weather and warmer in in cool weather. Always wear socks and a layer between your skin and wader to prevent dead skin from rubbing off and eventually causing a funky smell that will never leave. Wearing a fleece pant is ideal during cold seasons as condensation won’t build which occurs in non-breathable construction like neoprene.

Block the sun. Your preferred sun block should be applied before you get to the water and while out there. In the spring and fall when temps are cool the sun/uv exposure itself is intense when most don’t expect sun exposure to be a factor. Protect yourself on the overcast days, too.

Keeping Lubricated. Staying hydrated is key to staying comfortable in both cool and hot conditions. Water is the best way to stay hydrated, and by doing so the night before and just before the trip goes a long way. Coffee and alcohol have the opposite effect – they dehydrate you.

Recommended Gear

Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket

Below are some products and items I have used and feel strongly about endorsing.

Hand and Foot warmers. These inexpensive disposable warmers do a good job of keeping the chill out. For maximum effectiveness, open 30 min. before you get to the river. Look for these at big box and convenience stores.

Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket. This smooth, easy to layer over and under jacket can also be used as an external layer. It’s very warm when you consider its lack of bulk and how small it packs. It is available in both a hooded and non-hooded version, and it might become your favorite jacket when off the river, too.

Base Layer – Long Underwear. Simms Base Layer Options or Patagonia Capilene long underwear. Moisture management and comfortable while helping to keep you warm.

Dry Bag. Having a dry bag to keep extra layers not only keeps things dry, but also organized. Check out Simms Dry Creek Roll Top.

Simms Half-Finger Gloves

Simms Wool Half-Finger Gloves. These gloves are the best I have found to provide dexterity and warmth. Having a larger, warmer glove might come in handy when moving between fishing places or when your hands get cold, but these specific gloves are ones you actually can fish with.

Alba Sport Sunblock SPF50. Being “sport,” it handles sweat better than most. This “breathable” sunblock is one of the most comfortable I have used over the years, providing both protection and comfort – just remember to reapply.

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Rabbit Strip Leech Fly Pattern

Posted by Ted Kraimer - September 9, 2013

Rabbit Strip Leech. Sometimes called a String Leech.

Swinging flies for steelhead is becoming more popular with anglers using two-handed switch and spey rods. While the classic wets and “spey” style flies catch fish, patterns that are closer to streamers have proved effective. These larger patterns can bring a little more attention to themselves as they swim through an expansive run or in dirty or stained water. A rabbit strip leech or swing leech is about as basic as it gets for a pattern of this nature offering a good profile, action/moment and a proven track record.

Anglers that swing or strip streamers often complain that fish nip at the tail, missing the hook. This pattern places the hook near the end of the tail by using a loop of Berkley Fireline. This has three distinct advantages: 1. allows you to replace the hook in the event that it dulls or becomes bent further extending the life of the fly; 2. places the hook at the back of the fly where “nipping” fish will find it; and 3. eliminates the fouling of the long tail around the hook bend. This method/design works well with a number of streamers – try incorporating a loop in your fly patterns.

This pattern is only an example of one of the potential color schemes you can try. Try different color rabbit strips (browns, olive, white or black), ice dubs, collars, etc. to meet your needs and desires and fully make your fly box versatile by using various sized eyes for different conditions – from lead eyes to bead chain.

Top 5 Steelhead Flies - Leech Pattern - Miles Davis

The “Miles Davis” is a slight variation.

Recipe

Shank: Mustad 3366 2/0
Rear Hook: Gamakatsu Octopus or Drop Shot
Thread: Fly Master Plus – Black
Tail: Black Rabbit Strip
Tube: Black Tube
Body: Black Rabbit Strip
Collar: Black Schlappen
Wing: Flashabou – Black Holographic
Dub: Ice Dub – Peacock

Tying Instructions

Step 1. Insert hook in vise jaws and add a base layer of thread from behind hook eye to above barb.

Step 2. Cut a section of 20# Fireline – approximately 7 inches and fold in half. The loop end should extend off the back of the hook at a distance that meets your fly size needs – this example will extend two inches.

Step 3. Wrap the Fireline on top of the hook shank with tying thread. Place cut ends
of Fireline down through the hook eye and along the underside and wrap some
more. Whip finish and tie off. Apply a coat of Zap-A-Gap to secure and allow to dry.

Step 4. Using a tube fly vise or adapter, tie a 1/4 inch section of tube to the end part of your rabbit strip.
Be careful you don’t wrap over the rabbit hair but only over the pelt itself. Tie off.

Step 5. Start thread behind hook eye and wrap back to where previous wraps are.
Tie in Rabbit strip so the Fire Line loop goes through the tube and extends where
the pelt of the rabbit strip extends to the end of the loop. Do not trim Rabbit.

Step 6. Take remaining rabbit and wrap along hook shank towards hook eye,
sweeping rabbit hair backwards. Stop about 1/2″ behind hook eye.

Step 7. Figure-8 the eyes on the bottom of the shank so that the rabbit fur strip remains up.

Step 8. Tie in Flashabou wing with staggered ends without any strands extending beyond the rabbit.

Step 9. Wrap the schlappen forming a shoulder on the fly.

Step 10. Take a clump of ice dub and place it on top of the hook extending
backwards a little bit. Dub the rest of the head loosely and pick out.

Step 11. Whip finish and cut line. Using side cutters, cut the bend off the hook.
Thread the Fireline loop through the piece of tubing attached to the rabbit and attach
a hook by pushing the loop through the hook eye and over the hook then drawing tight.

Finished Rabbit Strip Swing Leech

Notes: Tie up a few shanks with Fireline loops during one session to speed up the process.

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Top 5 Steelhead Flies for Michigan

Posted by Ted Kraimer - March 17, 2013

Steelhead anglers in Michigan and the Great Lakes have a lot of choices when looking to stock their fly boxes. There’s no shortage of effective flies, but choosing a select few can almost be confusing or even intimidating. This list of top 5 steelhead flies includes patterns that have produced for me and my clients over the years – both in spring and fall.

Those who have fished with me know that my fly boxes include more patterns than these. The purpose of this list is to help you identify and start to build a collection that will fish well and become the favorite, producing staples in your fly box.

Hex Nymph

Bear’s Hex Nymph

Hexagenia mayfly nymphs or “wigglers” are significant, since many of our rivers with steelhead also have this silt burrowing mayfly. One of the largest mayflies, the hex, looks buggy. Many of the patterns used to represent them also share looks similar to other important food sources, like sand sculpins and sucker minnows. No steelhead box should be without some.

Commercially Tied Patterns: Bears Hex Nymph, Schultzy’s Rabbit Hexum, Ted’s Edible Hex, Fox’s Shuck Hex Nymph

Sizes: #6 – 10

Caddis

Boogie Woogie Caddis

Lift just about any rock or log in the river, and you will find caddis cases clinging to the cover. This grub looking pupa ranges in size and color, but it seems that green and chartreuse are the most effective for Michigan steelhead. Most patterns are tied larger and brighter than real life and “suggest” caddis, but serve more as an attractor – especially when fishing stained water. Small, natural looking patterns in green, olive and cream are worthy of a place in your box when fishing low, clear water often associated with winter steelheading.

Commercially Tied Patterns: Disco Caddis, Boogie Woogie Caddis, PM Caddis, Flashy Brassie Grub

Sizes: #6 – 12

Click here to learn how to tie Caddis patterns.

Steelhead Bugger

The “Crescent wrench” of all fly boxes for most species is the wooly bugger — because it works. Tied with a touch of flash and with the natural, buggy appearance of peacock, the steelhead bugger (a.k.a. “The Steelie Bugger”) is a slight variation from the standard wooly bugger. Both patterns suggest a leech, a stone fly and who knows what else – it’s the Steelhead Bugger that seems to be even better. Make sure you have some in your fly box.

Commercially Tied Pattern: Umpqua’s Steelhead Bugger

Sizes: #6

Click here to learn how to tie a variation of this pattern.

Egg Pattern

Nuke Egg

Tandem fly rigs are the norm when targeting steelhead. More often than not, one of the flies is an egg pattern. Serving as a realistic egg imitation or when large and bright – an attractor, no veteran steelhead fly angler will deny the effectiveness of an egg pattern. To learn more about fishing eggs for steelhead, read, Egg Patterns.

Commercially Tied Patterns:
Glo Bugs (Oregon Cheese, Golden, Chartreuse)
Crystal Eggs (Peach, Chartreuse)
Nuke Egg (Oregon Cheese over Steelhead Orange, Chartreuse over Flame, Egg over Steelhead Orange.
Rag Eggs (Clown, Apricot/Dark Roe , Egg/Salmon, Oregon Cheese/Burnt Orange)

Sizes: #6-10

Stonefly

Trout Retriever

The first insect of the year to hatch in significant numbers is the small black stonefly. Tie one on when you see them crawling on snow banks or fluttering on the surface when the sun is out and water temps increase slightly, tie one on. Our waters have a variety of stoneflies ranging from the small stones mentioned above to some in excess of two-inches long. My favorites are black and cover the size range. As water temps cool in the fall and leaves start to decompose underwater, stoneflies get active making them a good choice at all times of the year. Oh, and when the bite is tough, sometimes the small stone pattern is enough to trick the fish into eating a small snack even if they aren’t actively hatching.

Commercially Tied Patterns: Mercer’s Biot Epoxy Stone – Dark, Trout Retriever, Ted’s Early Black Stone, 20 Incher

Sizes #6-12

Honorable Mention: Leech

Miles Davis

Often the spring run can coincide with winter’s thaw and/or spring showers leading to high, dirty water conditions where your small realistic nymphs can go unnoticed. Tied with rabbit strips or marabou, the black leech’s large profile, undulating motion and sometimes combined with some sparkle or flash can come up big, deserving a place in your fly collection. High and dirty water in the fall isn’t much of a concern to fall steelhead anglers here in Michigan, but those looking to swing flies on sink-tips should keep a leech handy.

Commercially Tied Patterns: String Leech, Silvey’s Tail Light, Miles Davis, Larimer’s Reverse Marabou

Sizes: Go big

Top 5 Steelhead Flies - Spring Steelhead Leech Pattern

Leech Eating Spring Steelhead

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Early Black Stonefly Nymph Pattern

Posted by Ted Kraimer - March 17, 2013

Ted’s Early Black Stone

Small black stoneflies are one of the first aquatic insects to hatch in significant densities making them an ideal fly choice for those fishing steelhead in late winter and early spring. This quick and easy to tie stonefly nymph pattern helps you load up a row in your fly box quickly, allowing for more time on the water.

Stoneflies crawl around on the bottom and often become active with a slight increase in temperature – most notably when the sun is out warming the water a degree or two. The adults flutter on the water but the nymphs crawl to the bank to emerge. Look for them on any streamside snow, and if you see this happening- tie on a small black stone.

Spring Steelhead

Fish it dead drift like any nymph- preferably in tandem with a larger fly – often an egg pattern to serve as an attractor. Trout anglers have also found this nymph successful in the early season when the bugs are active.

Borrowing from the pheasant tail nymph, this pattern was designed to be impressionistic and quick to tie. This fly’s simplicity is what makes it a favorite to fish. Who doesn’t like an effective fly that is quick to tie?

Optional Epoxy Head

Tie a few of these Early Black Stones with the sparkling epoxy covered wingcase borrowed from the Copper John fly pattern adding a nice element to it. This sparkle often provides just enough “trigger” to get fish to bite. Even though these flies get active as early as February and continue through April, this pattern, especially with the epoxy head, can come up big in the fall.

Ted’s Early Black Stone is available from Rainy’s Flies and can be bought in stocking fly shops. Below are tying instructions for you fly tiers.

Early Black Stonefly Recipe

Hook:               TMC 2457 #8-12 or Daiichi X120
Thread:            Uni 6/0 Black
Tail:                 Peasant Tail – Black
Body:               Thread
Rib:                  Black Wire – Large
Thorax:            Ice Dub – Peacock
Wingcase:       Pheasant Tail – Black
Legs:                Pheasant Tail – Black

Tying Instructions

Step 1. Place hook in the vise and wrap a base layer of
thread to above hook barb and then back to toward the eye.

Step 2. Select 8-10 strands of pheasant tail dyed black and tie in on top of the hook so the
natural tips of the tail extend about a hook gape’s distance beyond the barb/base layer.
Now wrap thread back towards hook eye and over the shank which becomes the body.

Step 3. Tie in the wire on top of the hook at the thorax area. With your fingernail against the wire to keep
the wire from spinning at the tie-in area, wind the wire back towards the tail. Using wire cutters, trim the wire.

Step 4. Tie in another clump of pheasant tail (or the remainder of the original material) to serve as the wingcase.

Step 5. Dub a robust thorax with Ice Dub.

Step 6. Pull the pheasant tail fibers over the thorax as the wingcase
and tie down with two or three wraps – DO NOT TRIM excess material.

Step 7. Divide the pheasant tail fibers to each side of the hook and wrap them
so they are positioned about 45 degrees angled backwards.

Step 8. Trim the fibers, which are now the legs, so they are slightly longer than the thorax. Whip Finish and
apply water based head cement over the thread body and head. Standard head cements will melt Ice Dub.

Optional Epoxy Head:

Step – 3 1/2. Between Steps 3 and 4, tie in a piece of flashabou.

Step – 7 1/2. Pull the flashabou over the wingcase, centered and tie off.

Step – 9. Apply a drop of Loon UV Knot Sense over the thorax and cure with UV light. You can
use 5-minute epoxy or Clear Cure Goo as an alternative to Knot Sense to achieve the same effect.

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Flashtail Clouser Minnow

Posted by Ted Kraimer - July 3, 2012

Flashtail Clouser

Most anglers are familiar with the Clouser Minnow — a highly effective fly created by smallmouth bass angler and guru Bob Clouser. With its lead eyes and streamlined bucktail construction, the fly acts similar to a bucktail jig and can effectively be fished in a variety of colors for a variety of species, making it one of the most versatile patterns for both fresh and saltwater fish.

The Flashtail Clouser was influenced by the original Clouser Minnow pattern and Dan Blanton’s rendition — the Flashtail Deep Minnow. Notable differences in this pattern include a tail of reflective Flashabou, a body of synthetic dubbing to add some bulk and transparency, and a belly and wing made from soft, natural materials that have more movement in the water. The result is more durable than bucktail.

Smallmouth Bass caught on a Flashtail Clouser

You can fish the Flashtail Clouser in both rivers and lakes with both floating lines and sink-tips. I suggest tying these flies using various sized eyes from bead-chain to a few different sizes of painted dumbbell to allow fishing various depths and current flows.

With floating lines, use leaders around 9 feet in length to allow the fly to sink. When stripped, the jig-style hook and a floating line create a fleeing “hop” while moving forward, imitating a spooked and fleeing baitfish — something predatory fish often key-in on.

Fish this pattern with varying speeds and pauses on sink-tip lines when you need to get the fly deeper and/or in swift moving currents.

Flashtail Clouser – Wet

Easy to tie, highly effective and very versatile, tie this pattern in sizes that range from a few inches up to 8 inches in length. You can change the color profile to match any particular baitfish that is prevalent to your favorite fishery or even in attractor color schemes.

Trout • Pike • Salmon • Smallmouth Bass • Bluegill • Largemouth Bass • Walleye • Steelhead

Flashtail Clouser Minnow Recipe

Hook: U555 Jig 6, or TFS 5440 1/0 – 6
Thread: Gray Uni 6/0
Tail: 50/50 mix of Mirage Opal/silver and Flashabou Pearl
Body: Hareline Polar Dub – White
Eyes: S.S. Bead Chain or painted dumbbell – sized accordingly
Belly: Sheep Hair/Sculpin Wool – White
Wing: Silver Fox Tail

Step 1. After wrapping a base layer of thread from behind the angled hook shank to above
the hook barb, tie eyes using figure-8 wraps, leaving room to tie in the belly and wing.
Some people prefer to add a drop of Zap-A-Gap to the wraps at this point (optional).

Step 2. Tie in the tail material so it extends backwards twice the length of the hook shank.

Step 3. Very loosely dub clumps of Polar Dub from the tail tie in area to just
behind the eyes. Pick out with scissor point or bodkin.

Step 4. Tie in a sparse clump of sheep hair behind the eyes so the tips extend halfway down the tail.
After secure, wind your thread between the eye and hook eye. Pull sheep hair over the eyes and tie down.

Step 5. On the opposite side of the white belly hair, tie in a clump of Silver Fox tail for
a wing that is slightly longer than the belly. Trim, tie off and apply two coats of head cement.

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