Trout

Introducing Others To Fly Fishing

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Chances are if you are reading this, you already like to fly fish. If that’s the case – why not share it with someone new to the sport – a kid, a friend or family member? Below you will find reasons to introduce others, how to avoid intimidation and resources to help you along the way.

Reasons

There are plenty of reasons why introducing someone to fly fishing is advantageous – here are some which might apply to you:

It’s often nice to share the time with someone else, especially the drive to and from the water. Besides, having a friend to net the that big fish and take a picture is easier than by yourself.
Safety in numbers – what if something happens and you’re alone? Having a friend nearby can prove real smart.
Get someone involved who will get you on the water more. A good example is a friend who got his father-in-law into the sport. The amount of time he spent
fishing increased significantly — plus, he had his wife’s
support and approval.
By getting your kids out, not only will you get to spend some good time with them outdoors, but it will get you on the water more and with mom’s blessing.
Share the sport and promote conservation. We need all the help we can get with preserving and improving our fisheries – one more license bought and a future voice to speak will only help.
Pass the sport on to a kid. There are plenty of activities competing for kids attention today, and it seems like the majority of them take place indoors. Get a kid outside and mentor them – they are the future of fly fishing. Big Brothers & Big Sisters, the neighbor kid, a nephew or other relative are possible candidates – have an impact.

Avoid Intimidation

Thinking back to when I first started this sport without a mentor, I was intimidated by all there was to know and didn’t know where to begin. Eliminate that feeling for a beginner by coaching them on the necessary basics and keeping it fun. Here are some thoughts on how to achieve this:

Let them use some of your equipment at first to see if they like the sport before they buy. This eliminates the costs associated and allows them to try the sport first.
Start them off with a casting lesson on the lawn or on a pond without the intimidation of flies/hooks, moving water, picky fish, etc. This reinforces the fundamentals of fly fishing – casting and once grasped, it makes it
easier to fish.
When I first started off, a good day of fishing was measured by not catching trees or tag alders along the bank. Any caught fish were an extreme bonus. Don’t hold them to your own fishing expectations – you probably are much better at the sport than they are. Instead, help make realistic goals and encourage them. Don’t snicker at a tangled leader or the small brook trout they caught.
Pick the season and species. Bluegill fishing on ponds and lakes is a great way to learn the sport. There are often plenty of fish that eat aggressively, providing opportunities on how to set the hook and bring a fish to hand. The basics are still required: casting, line control, fly manipulation, reeling, knots, etc. Consider that there are many more places to fish panfish than there are trout rivers.
If trout fishing, determine an ideal time to get out there. Opening day or late evening spinner falls for selectively feeding fish aren’t necessarily ideal for someone starting out. Fish when there is daylight so they can see what they are doing and can feel comfortable as they learn how to wade.
If you’re thinking about getting your wife or girlfriend involved, proceed with caution. Based on observation, I think it’s sometimes best to let someone else help with this task rather than test the strength of your relationship. This is where a guide’s fee can be priceless.
Keep the amount of time realistic. Don’t push the sport and when they are frustrated, offer a hand and encouragement rather than a chuckle. Be patient – they might just pick up the tab at the tavern on the way home.

Resources

Here are some suggestions on resources to help you, the mentor get the newbie started and off in the right direction:

Get them a casting lesson to get started without teaching them any of your bad habits. Hiring a professional will streamline the process.
Hire a guide for a half-day instead of a full-day to flatten the learning curve and keep it fun. As an FFF certified casting instructor and a guide, I have an appreciation for having fun while keeping the learning on track and often into fish without overwhelming them. Make their first experiences with the sport positive.
Selfish and shamelss promotion: hiring a guide will help
make it that way.
The Traverse City based Adams Chapter of Trout Unlimited offers two unique programs for kids. The “First Cast” program takes place in the summer one night a week for appx. 5 weeks. The Adams Chapter also works with The Kalamazoo Valley Chapter of TU and sponsors kids to attend a four day camp for young adults to learn about fly fishing. Check the Adams Chapter website for more information on these programs.
There are ideal books and DVDs for someone starting out, including “First Cast to First Fish” by Joseph Petralia, “Fly Fishing Made Easy” by DVD from Scientific Anglers and “The Little Red Fishing Knot Book” by Harry Nilsson.
For kids, consider “First Cast: Teaching Kids to Fly Fish” by Phil Genova and “Fly Fishing with Children” by Philip Brunquell.

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Tips For Better Streamer Fishing

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Streamer fishing has really evolved over the past 15 years, from fishing small patterns like Mickey Finns and Grey Ghosts fished swung and quickly stripped back on floating lines, to flies commonly ranging from 4-6 inches long, often with lots of bulk, a large profile, shimmer and flash, weight and other accessories and fished on a heavy sink-tips. By doing so, we take big flies to big fish and break-up those periods where surface action is nil but we still want success on the water.

This is not the “gentleman’s” way to present a fly. Often, this presentation triggers a pure territorial response, getting the fish to eat; other times, they just want to eat something big and go back under a log for a while. That’s how they get bigger. This isn’t necessarily a new style of fishing for many, for others it is. Regardless of your experience or the species you cast a streamer to (trout, salmon, steelhead, smallmouth bass), the following tips are suggestions for improving your streamer fishing and scoring big.

Mix it up

Fish can be particular from one day to the other and even throughout the day – not so much to fly sizes, but color and movement. Anyone who has been fishing on “the day” knows that streamer fishing can be some of the most exhilarating and successful ways to catch big fish. But it can turn on and off quickly and/or the fish can have an attitude change and decide something else looks good. Sunlight can make a fly look different, so if the light changes, consider how your once-hot fly might appear in the new conditions and change it if need to be.

Mix up not only your patterns with respect to their colors, size, profile, action, amount of weight, but also how you fish them: faster, slower, deeper, jig-like, lots of pause/suspension, quickly, jerkily; in the heavy structure, in the middle of the river, perhaps the inside seams with little structure. Mix it up, look for a behavioral pattern and always assess. The more you fish the more you will develop your favorite patterns for certain conditions. Let your gut dictate what you should try, but don’t be stubborn and stick with something that isn’t working.

Don’t Recast

If your cast fails to hit the target and falls a little short, rather than pick it up and attempt to get that extra 2 feet of length, let it go and fish it – that is, unless it’s going right into a snag or something else ominous. Here’s why: If you pull that fly out, you may have pulled out of the water just as a fish was about to smash it. Further, if you recast it will you really hit the target the second time? Lastly, when you pull the fly out to recast, you often spook fish and alert them that something isn’t right so your second cast comes through disturbed water with an educated fish in it. Make your cast and fish it out.

Feel The Fish

Set the hook when you feel the fish, not see the fish eat. It has happened too many times – a brown trout into the mid-20s or a 15-pound salmon comes up to eat, mouth opens and the fly rips through the water thanks to a premature hook set. Strike one – you’re out. Keep that fly moving, and when you feel the tug, set the hook as hard as the equipment will allow you to. If you do everything right, the hook fails to stick and the fly comes up and out of the water, cast it right back in there immediately. The fish is typically committed and is now pissed that they ate but didn’t get it in their mouth and are looking around for the “escapee.” I have witnessed fish chasing and eating a fly a number of times before it all connects and the fish is on. Really, cast it in their again and move the fly.

Present Your Fly, Not Your Line & Leader

If fishing with a streamer, you want your fly to be what the fish see, not your line and/or leader. Because we often use such short, stout leaders to dark color sink-tips, we can do things incorrectly with ease. Since fish mostly look upstream, cast your fly at an angle to the river that will keep your fly moving slightly across the current and broadside, exposing the fly to more fishy looking water. With streamer fishing being a predator/prey scenario, keep in mind that the prey (the fly) will use the current of the river flow to escape the predator (fish) rather than move upstream and fight the current to escape the danger. When the cast gets swept downstream and turns to go upstream, strip it back upstream once or twice, but not in completely – it’s time to recast.

When we cast the correct angle, we need to be sure we keep the fly moving the right direction but not too swiftly where the fly is streaking across and downstream too fast and without enticing action. To help with this, mending goes a long way to slow the speed and present more of the fly to good looking structure and hopefully fish, too.

Multi-Task

You have two eyes – use them both. Keep one eye on your fly and your line and how it is moving through the water, adding mends, looking for response from fish and avoiding snags. With the second eye, look downstream for your next target. Rather than cast out immediately after you strip your fly back in, it might be prudent to move a little downstream before casting so the fly gets as close to the structure as possible.

Choose Your Leader

Use a short leader, not a long one with sink-tips. The sinking section of the line is used to penetrate the water column and present the fly at the depth we desire. A short leader keeps the fly close to the sinking line, whereas a long leader can end up riding higher in the column due in part to the current forces and any buoyancy characteristics of the fly. I prefer a leader no longer than 5 ft. in length.

Use a long leader, not a short one with floating line (7 to 9 feet). We do this for the opposite reason as above. If we want the fly to sink and get deep, we need enough leader that will allow separation of fly from floating line. Make sure the fly has some weight to it when using a floating line, unless you aren’t looking to fish it deep.

Keep It Moving

As we strip that fly through the water, yet again, sometimes that big fish appears from nowhere tracking the fly. Too often anglers stop moving the fly to let the fish “catch-up.” Don’t – keep it moving! By stopping, it’s typically a game-over situation as the fish recognizes something is wrong and goes back to where he came from – why would something fleeing for its life just give up? Anglers’ shoulders slump, jaw opens and some profanity slips out.

Keep the fly moving — maybe slower or more erratically to entice the bite, but keep it moving. It’s not a guarantee that the fish will eat but you should know there are no guarantees in the sport just experience to learn from. As such, sometimes smallmouth bass like the fly stopped when they follow it. Try it – if it doesn’t work after a few attempts of pausing it, go back to keeping it moving.

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Tips for Fighting and Landing Fish

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

We all fish for different reasons, but one thing remains certain for all of us – when we hook a fish, we want to land it. Whether it’s a trophy steelhead you’ve been determined to catch for years or an 8-inch brook trout, there are certain principles to understand and fundamental skills to use when on the river. Here are some pointers I have picked up through the years by doing, observing and teaching which will increase your chances of telling a fish story that doesn’t start with, “You should have seen the one that got away.”

Under Pressure

We have all heard it – keep a tight line on the fish. This holds true for almost every conceivable fishing situation – maintain tension and keep the slack out. Not doing so increases two potential pitfalls: 1. Pressure on the hook keeps it in the fish – hopefully buried into the bend of the hook. With slack in the line, the hook can literally fall out of the entry point leaving you with slack line and disgusted look on your face. 2. The longer the fish, the more distance they can move their head. This back-and-forth action coupled with lighter line is similar to how you break thread or a line in your hand – you start with slack and then forcefully jerk it. Think about it – do you pull evenly and smoothly to intentionally break a line? Maintain tension to help prevent the line from snapping.

Being Smooth

Maintain a tight line by reeling and pulling with the rod, but do it smoothly. Have you ever seen a large bull cow with a ring in its nose? Its purpose is to allow the handler to lead the bull around: smoothly draw it in a direction and it will follow, but if yanked or pulled hard it often violently moves in the opposite direction. The same is true with fish. In fact, you can almost make a case for Newton’s Third Law of Physics: for every action there is an equal but opposite reaction – the harder you pull on a fish in one direction, it often wants to go in the other direction that much more. Reel smoothly and bring the fish to you or to a place downstream where you intend to land it.

Fish Judo

Hooked fish are often easy to steer and control because you have them hooked in the leading part of its anatomy – the mouth. As long as you keep that head moving in the right direction, you have a better chance of dictating and controlling the fight and keeping emotions under control. But, not always. Often the fish tumbles, jumps or quickly changes directions and gets his head going in the opposite direction you want. When this happens the fish is in control and often heads for cover/structure, which more often than not here in Michigan means logs.

Rather than pulling straight back with rod in the opposite direction the fish is headed (which, with larger species only infuriates them more – remember Newton’s Third Law?) – use “Fish Judo” which, in essence, is using their energy to your advantage. With a low rod, lead them away from the ominous structure by pulling the fish to the side, favoring its intended direction and steer it away.

How Much Is Enough?

There can be a fine line between too much pressure and not enough. Often, it isn’t enough. Truly. When anglers hold the rod tip straight up while fighting the fish, they often do so to keep the slack out, but are putting very little pressure on the fish. Does it seem like you’re applying serious pressure or that the rod is maxed out? You might be surprised as I was when my eyes were opened during a tarpon fishing trip.

Try this experiment/exercise: Get a friend (better if it’s a fellow angler) and pull 25 feet of line and leader through the rod. Have your friend pull back on the rod with the tip up and maintain pressure while you hold the end of the leader. How much pressure do you feel? If this isn’t scientific enough for you then get some type of weight scale like a boga grip and tie the line to it. Repeat the experiment and read the scale and read the results. Change places with your friend and repeat — the scale readings will give you a better idea of how much pressure you are applying. Further, move the rod tip down closer to horizontal and see how that affects the amount of pressure on the scale. Remember – it’s the snap or jerk of the line that is more accountable for breaking rather than smooth pressure which is why equipment too, plays a role in protecting lines when applying pressure, i.e., a smooth drag and a rod tip that flexes and acts as a shock absorber.

The Kiss of Death

The time, in my opinion, when a fish is most likely to “spit the hook” and send the hook back to you is when it’s down stream, facing you, and shaking its head violently. I hate it. And it happens often. When this occurs, we as anglers often have the rod tip pointed up and the force of the water brings the fish to the surface, thrashing. As soon as you see this happen – or better yet – starting to happen, move your rod down to a horizontal position and to the side furthest away from the fish, creating the maximum angle between your rod tip and the fish. By doing so you gain additional continual pressure on the hook through the headshaking as the current assists by putting a downstream bend in the line. Also, this lowered, sideways pressure encourages the fish to get its head down in the water column where you can tire the fish out instead of holding on and hoping.

“Let him go, let him go!”

Some days when guiding I seem to say this more than others. When a fish is making a run and is in charge, let him go. By holding your reel handle or grabbing the line, only bad things happen — and it’s usually a fish lost because of line breaking or flies pulling out. When a fish runs, trust your drag setting (you did adjust it at the start of the day didn’t you?) and let him go while incorporating some of the pointers mentioned above.

Reel Fast

If you don’t get the opportunity to fish much and are a little slow at reeling in – practice at home. Put your reel on the bottom section of your rod and just practice “air-reeling.” Make your reeling faster and smother by keeping your elbow and forearm at a 90-degree angle to the face of the reel and using a circular wrist motion to wind – if not, your reeling will be jerky and definitely not as fast.

Water Survey

This often happens sub-consciously, but not always. While fishing, you are reading water to make the best presentation of your ability to the water most likely to be holding fish. Through this process take stock of structure, depth, overhanging trees and water depth. By doing so, when you hook a fish in that particular location, you know where you need to keep that fish from going and where a good location is to land a fish, while remaining safe (and dry).

Giving Them the Wood

Sometimes a fish gets the upper hand on you – that is they are going to break you off on some type of structure or go around the river bend, etc. , and there simply isn’t much you can do – except, “Give ‘em the wood.” This last-ditch effort to get the fish to hand is done by applying the maximum power of the rod through the butt section and trying to slow down, turn, or stop the fish – something to disrupt the pending course of events and keep the fish on the line. By doing this you are taking your equipment to the maximum – testing the strength of rods, tippets and knots – but if you don’t you will lose the fish. Think of this as an all or nothing move – meaning, the fish is going to win/get away unless you stop them so, give ‘em the wood.

The Capture

Some like to use nets, others like to grab fish with their hand or landing glove. Regardless, you need to get the fish close to you first and second, the grab or sweep of the net needs to be done swiftly and at the right time. When the fish is close, have your rod down low and lift its head up smoothly – but stay committed with lifting until the fish is in the net. If fishing with a friend or guide, this is the time they sweep the net under the fish – head first, with confidence, not hesitation. If using a landing hand on larger species like steelhead or salmon, execute a “Heron Grab” which is done by plunging your hand downward onto the fish’s wrist (the skinny part of the tail) and hold on firmly. Be sure to communicate during the process or the communication after the failed attempt will be colorful and often will test any friendship. If you are by fishing by yourself, get the fish close and have your rod on the opposite side of where you intend to land it. If fishing for smaller fish like a trout, gently grab the fish around its middle or slide the net under it. Never bring a fish up onto the shore or muddy bank as sand, silt and other debris will get into their gill plates, often killing the fish within a few days.

Keep in mind we are out fishing for fun, whereas the fish – once hooked – are fighting for survival. Even though you might follow all of these suggestions and tips as well as some of your own, sometimes it isn’t enough and the fish wins. Rather than be pissed-off – tip your hat in appreciation of that fish and get ready for the next chance at landing what could be even bigger and better; use the tips for fighting and landing fish above to help make that happen.

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Trout Fishing Before the Hex Hatch

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Great Hatches & Fishing Before the Hex Hatch

The hex hatch that occurs every year from Mid-June and sometimes extending into Mid-July is no secret to anyone who has fished and/or read about Northern Michigan’s trout fishing. Just as the western rivers are known for the salmonfly or stonefly hatch, the hex is our claim to angling and fly fishing notoriety.

The large, nocturnal hatching hexagenia limbata mayflies bring out some of the largest and most-weary fish, but it also brings on big expectations, crowded riverbanks, and dark fishing condition. Do I dare suggest abandoning hex fishing? Absolutely not – just consider the great fishing opportunities just prior to the hex hatch for the year’s best dry fly fishing.

The Good News

Spinner Fall

In early June, anglers can expect to find a smorgasbord of bugs on the water. Mayflies, stoneflies and caddis – often at the same time – can be floating down the river. As they often do, trout can key in on not only a particular insect, but also life-stage providing anglers with some great dry-fly challenges.

Here is a breakdown of what mayflies you can expect to find on the water in the weeks prior to the hex emergence:

Sulphurs

Ted’s Sulphur Emerger

Latin: Ephemerella subvaria, rotunda, invaria, & dorthea
Common Name: Sulphurs, Light Hendricksons, Pale Evening Dun
Hook Size: #14-16

The Sulphur hatch encompasses a number of similar looking bugs all rolled up into one, long lasting hatch. Starting as early as mid-May, look for the bugs to continue well into the first few weeks of June.

The prolific nature of these bugs is partly due to a wide range of conditions that the bugs call home. From slow moving water to the fastest of riffles, the nymphs crawl around until conditions are right to emerge. Typically in the last two-three hours of evening before dark, these easy to identify bugs will start to populate the water’s surface before flying off to mature in to adults. Duns vary in color; they can be: yellow, creamy yellow, orange, yellow with hints of olive, and light green. They dun’s wings are a true dun (grey) color and all stages of this bug have three tails.

Sulphur spinners love riffles and can range in color from “rusty spinners”/ maroon to a mix of brown and yellow while all Sulphurs spinners sport clear wings. They can build in numbers a few hours before dark and fall to the water even past dark making for some of the most challenging fishing – small sips from large fish in low light. Be there.

Tip: Emergers are deadly for Sulphurs since they typically leave the water’s surface immediately after shucking its nymphal exoskeleton. Spinners at dark can bring up great fish. Although difficult to see, look for them in fading seams. Crouch down low in the water to help locate those delicate sippers.

Mahogany Dun

Sparkle Dun Emerger

Latin: Paraleptophlebia Adoptiva
Common Name: Mahogany Dun, Small Slate Wing Dun
Hook Size: #16

Found in mixed water: slow, moderate and quick riffles, these bugs are difficult to see on the broken surface of riffles, so be sure to look in the smoother water for not only identification, but also feeding fish. With three tails, the duns have grayish wings and a reddish brown color (hence the name Mahogany) whereas the duns have a slightly darker body and a clear wing.

The small size of the Mahogany Dun can bring up some of the larger fish to feed. What makes this bug a little less known to most anglers is that fish gently sip on them and hearing them is unlikely – you need to look astutely for risers. Once you see fish in their teens and into twenty inches feeding on these you might not be a believer that such a small bug is of significance. Look closely at tail outs and glassy flats for the smallest ring of the rise for fish feeding. Because they often hatch the last couple of hours before dark, the fish can be very selective to your presentation. One blown cast or some drag on the fly that resembles a mayfly on water skis crossing the wake and its all over.

Tip: The Mahogany Dun is one of those flies that the fish just like to key on some days even though there are other bugs to choose from. Do these bugs sit in the water differently, dead-drift longer or simply taste better? It doesn’t matter; learn to recognize when this bug is on the water and have a skeleton key to some of the most selective trout.

Black Quills

Borcher’s Drake Parachute

Latin: Leptophlebia cupida
Common Name: Borchers Drake
Hook Size: #12-14

Black Quills are not one of our most prolific bugs populating our local rivers, but they are worth making note of. Starting in the first part of May, anglers will find these bugs on and above the water.

This bug consistently shows itself in daylight and because of its size it is significant to trout and trout anglers. Make some room in your fly box for some Borcher’s Drake Parachute imitations and don’t be afraid to fish them blindly as you cover water when no fish are rising.

Look for this three tailed bug to have a very dark colored body and a wing with black splotches. Spinners are clear winged and prefer riffles. The tails are noticeable on these flies as they are longer than most mayfly’s tails – approximately 2 times rather than 1 ½ times the body length.

Tip: The Borcher’s Drake pattern is a great imitation for Black Quills. Borchers also do a good job of suggesting other patterns that are dark in color when in spinner form – no fly box in Michigan should be without a collection of these flies in sizes 12-16.

Learn how to tie the Borcher’s Drake Parachute fly pattern »

Bat Flies

Jerry Regan’s Bat Fly

Latin: Baetisca
Common Name: Bat Fly, Armored Mayfly
Hook Size: # 16-18

Not much is known about this bug, but you should know this: if you fish the Upper Manistee, The Boardman or AuSable Rivers in June, have some. Have you ever experienced fish rising but not being able to determine what it was they were eating? Chances are it was the Bat Fly the fish were keyed in on.

Named for its shape, the Bat Fly has practically no abdomen – a lot like a bat itself; lots of wing and a robust thorax to support them. This bug has three tails with the middle one shorter than the others. Its body color is a golden brown to olive color and is slightly mottled as is the wing of the dun. Spinner’s wings are clear. The spinner is the pattern of most importance to anglers and they often are on the water for weeks becoming an important source of food for fish.

Fished to rising fish in slow to moderate flats in fading light is the best way to describe situations you are most-likely to experience. While I nor clients have been lucky enough to witness fish over twenty inches feeding on these bugs, I will say it is a staple diet of fish up to 18 inches in length.

Tip: Because this isn’t a well-known mayfly, your fishing buddy probably will be unprepared. Make some money on the water by selling him some extra flies or just make him green with envy at the success your small, “body-less” fly is bringing you.

Brown Drakes

Neally’s Brown Drake

Latin: Ephemera Simulans
Common Name: Brown Drakes, Roberts Yellow Drake
Hook Size: #10

The second largest mayfly we experience next to the hex – the Brown Drake is an emergence you don’t want to miss. When they come off, they typically do so heavily and the fish are taking clear advantage of the low-light gravy train. Not a long hatch – typically less than an hour just before dark and sometimes into dark – and for only a few days, trying to nail down and be on the water when they come off is well worth it.

The three tailed nymphs live in both silt in sand, but can be found in mixed sand and gravel areas. The emergers take a while to make the transition into an adult and therefore it’s a good stage to represent with a fly. Duns have a brown body with yellow/cream splotches and medium tan wings with darker splotches. Spinners with their clear wings with dark splotches usually return to the water a few days after emergence to mate over riffle areas where they become easy prey for trout. Because of their size, fishing a brown drake nymph during its hatch window can be effective – down and across with rising/jigging of the rod tip. The same holds true with Isonycias (see below).

Tip: Neally’s Brown Drake Pattern is simply an awesome imitation for this bug. Not only do the fish like it, but in low light, you will too!

Isonychias

Ted’s Tilt-Shoot Iso

Latin: Isonychia Bicolor & Isonychia salderi
Common Name: Slate Wing Dun, Iso, White Glove Howdy, Maroon Duns
Hook Size: 12-14

Found on our rivers in two varieties – Iso’s are one of the most prolific bugs that rivers like the Manistee are enriched with. This fly loves riffles and according to entomology text books, they emerge into an adult after they crawl to the bank. I am confident in telling you that these bugs do float down the river and make the transition from nymph to adult. The fish take notice also. Their size helps make them an important food source and they are known to sometimes emerge in small numbers throughout the day.

Isonychia duns have two legs and can vary in color – from a light olive/gray to medium brown with hints of red (think large Mahogany); their wings are a milky dun color. Spinners often collect in the evening above riffles or any slight break in the water’s surface. Their bodies are much thinner now and are a dark maroon and clear wing fall to the water. These bugs are easy to identify as the front two legs are white/cream in color – pick one off the water and look.

Tip: Realistic looking patterns fished throughout the day – blindly (boon-dogging) can produce some surprising results. While streamer fishing is preferred by many during the light of day, it’s not for everyone. If this is the case, tie on a dun or spinner and work seams on top and be sure to set the hook slowly when you see a lot of trout come up and eat.

Learn how to tie the Tilt-Shoot Isonychia fly pattern »

Gray Drakes

Ted’s Gray Drake Spinner

Latin: Siphlonurus
Common Name: Gray Drake
Size: 10-12

Grey Drakes are a bug that build in prolific numbers above any type of broken water, but are rarely seen on the water as adults. These flies are Gray in color as their name suggests and often hit the water hard giving the fish a predominate choice in food. Like most spinners, look for them to collect in swarms up to two hours prior nightfall.

The spinners have two tails and are easily identified by a white ring around the bottom of their eye. Be ready to fish after dark as the spinners can continue to fall if the air temperatures stay warm.

Tip: A tandem rig of two flies works great – my favorite combo is a #12 Parachute Adams and a Gray Drake Spinner. Use the leading parachute to help you track the two flies and use it as an indicator since rises in broken water can be difficult to detect.

Presentation and Equipment

The Magic Hour

Having the right fly in your box is only part of the equation that is going to make the night on the water memorable. Remember: presentation trumps fly selection.

If you have the right fly but don’t effectively present it to the fish, you are likely to miss out on hooking fish. A little practice during the day to make sure your flies and leaders are turning over, that your mends are proactive and that your casting accuracy is dialed in can pay off later when you might get your chance at rising fish.

Even though all of the flies listed vary in size, your favorite rods in 4 & 5 weight will work just fine. Length is a matter of preference – just make sure you have a rod that will assist you with good line control once it’s on the water. Leaders from 4x-6x are fine and should be at least 9ft in length. With the great mayfly hatches of June come other bugs; the mosquitoes and no-see-ums can be heavy so make sure you have your favorite bug repellent stashed in your vest. Note: Repellent containing DEET will damage leaders, line and other equipment so be careful applying it and be sure to keep it off of the insides of your hands. Even though it’s not the hex hatch, you will still want a headlamp because many of these bugs will still feed fish when it is difficult to see. Having a light makes it not only easy to tie your fly on, but also getting back to your car.

Weather or Not

All rivers have a different hatch calendar – that is the exact times that particular bugs emerge. Mostly dependent on water temperatures, “hatch-windows” can carry-on for weeks if an angler is looking to move to different sections of a river chasing bugs or even change which river to fish.

The weather, it seems, the past number of years has been more unstable and fairly inconsistent day to day through the month of June. Cooler evenings, hotter days, stretches of cool days and/or a mix of all of these has had an effect on what bugs hatch and when. The good news is, when we have the diversity of various bugs emerging at overlapping periods there are several possibilities to catch fish on. The end of May and the month of June is a great time of the year to experience some of the best dry fly fishing this State has to offer – get out there before the hex, the crowds and the dark.

Author’s Note: Most of the fly patterns used in this article are commercially tied and available locally at The Northern Angler, here in Traverse City, Michigan.

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Trout Fishing After the Hex Hatch

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 16, 2012

Keep Fishing After the Hex Hatch

[Author’s Note: Last year I wrote an article on “Fishing Before the Hex,” which was intended to give the reader a better insight to the various bugs that emerge in the weeks prior to the hex hatch. This article covers what an angler can expect to find on the water the months following the hex hatch.]

The Hex hatch is what gets not only the larger fish out of their bunkers, but also what brings out more anglers in pursuit of carnivorous fish eating recklessly. When the big bugs are gone, so are the crowds but plenty of fishing opportunities exist. Here is what you can expect to see on the local trout rivers in July and August, where to find them and tips on how to fish them:

Isonychias

Ted's CDC Isonychia Spinner

Latin Name: Isonychia bicolor & Isonychia salderi
Common Name: Iso, White Glove Howdy, Slate Drake
Hook Size: #10-14

Isonychias continue to earn their appreciation amongst anglers as bug populations/densities on certain rivers not only continue to build, but also the time window of when they hatch seems to get larger. The big numbers of Iso’s typically occur in the middle of June, but bugs can be seen through mid-August in the evenings. Don’t expect to find them thick enough to cover the water,but because of their size, it doesn’t take many for the fish to notice them. When they aren’t on the water, a dry fly angler will appreciate the response a well presented Isonychia receives. When you flip your calendar from June to July, leave the Isonychias in your fly box.

Tip: Take your nice Iso pattern and bend the shank sideways making it look like a dead cripple.

Tricos

Rene Harrop's Para Trico

Latin Name: Tricorythodes
Common Name: Trico
Hook Size: #18-24

These are some of the smallest bugs Northern Michigan anglers will find in big numbers with fish actually feeding on them. Just after the nocturnal hex when an angler finds himself staying up late, the trico angler is an early riser – from first light to about noon. The cool evenings and lack of sun will delay the hatch until mid-morning, but when they come off, they typically do in decent numbers.

This mayfly is not known to get the big fish of northern Michigan rising in the bright sun, but the Tricos do however get smaller fish to key in on them and it’s a lot of fun with a lighter rod. Pay close attention to the rises – they are often small dimples in the water as opposed to slurps and even the rare but large fish that comes to snack will leave the smallest evidence on the surface. Look for Tricos to start in early July and extending mostly through August.

Tip: Since they are small, fish them as a trailer behind a larger dry fly that will act as a strike indicator.

Grey Drakes

Ted's Gray Drake Spinner

Latin Name: Siphlonurus
Common Name: Gray Drake
Hook Size: #12-14

Grey Drakes are smaller than their brown and green brothers and really like sections of rivers with gravel, often building in heavy numbers as adults to mate. Target adult spinners and the fish feeding on them in the slick water below the riffles where they hover above to do their mating dance.

These bugs start in mid-June and can extend to mid-July. An easy way to confirm a Gray Drake is to catch one and inspect the eyes – if they are outlined on the bottom with white lines – it’s them. This is the closest mayfly that matches an Adams dry fly pattern.

Tip: Bring your headlamp as you can have action into the dark hours.

Light Cahills

Extended Body Light Cahill Comparadun

Latin Name: Stenomena canadense
Common Name: Cahill (Kay-hill)
Hook Size: #12-14

Light Cahills are one of those bugs that are around for months, but rarely are found in large numbers. My experience with these meaty, cream colored flies suggests they are not a favorite of fish – they will eat other bugs on the water leaving the Cahills. Because of their numbers and their lengthy hatch period, I’m sure to have some in the box whether they are the only bug on the water and/or if the fish do key in on them.

Tip: Have them in your box but make sure fish are taking them – not another insect- before fishing them.

Blue Wing Olives

Gallpup's BWO Cripple

Latin Name:Pseudocloeon
Common Name: BWOs, Baetis, Olives
Hook Size: #18-22

The name Blue Wing Olive and Baetis includes a number of different bugs that are widespread throughout the U.S. and northern Michigan. From winter hatches below tail-waters, to their reputation of emerging only on cool, cloudy and slightly rainy days, anglers in July and August will want some “olives” in their box regardless of whether it’s raining or not. Blue Wing Olives in size 18 – 22 are a good call, and a pattern like Galloup’s BWO cripple is a great choice when fish lock in on them.

Tip: Just like an Adams should be carried in your box at all times, always have a selection of BWOs too.

Ephorons

Ted's Ephoron Emerger

Latin Name: Ephoron Leukon
Common Name: Ephorons, White Flies
Hook Size: #12

Typically hatching in the last hour or two before dark, the Ephoron will emerge heavily and fast, looking similar to snow flurries. This bug makes the transition from nymph to adult to spinner within a few hours before falling spent to the water so you will want all stages of the fly with you. Certain sections of certain rivers experience these in mid-August through September when water temperatures can be high; if it’s too high, forgo fishing as even catch-and-release practices result in a high mortality rate.

Tip: Have an emerger tied on and be prepared for a flurry of action because when the bugs come they come off the water fast. After things slow down, tie on a spinner pattern and wait for the bugs to return. It can all happen quickly so be prepared.

Terrestrials

Terrestrials encompass all sorts of bugs that play a role to the fly fisher. Insects like grasshoppers, ants and beetles are just the most common examples of these so you’ll want a box of them in all sorts of sizes, shapes and colors. I have written an additional article specifically on terrestrial fishing — Read “Terrestrials and Terrestrial Fishing” here »

Hoppers

Variation of Charlie Boy Hopper

This is the most popular insect in this category of bugs, as they should be. When the wind blows them out of overhanging grass and trees or out of the air as they fly, trout often crush them wherever you find the two. Once the mid-morning sun has burned off the dew, fish hoppers on the sunny days through the evening when the wind is at its highest. Hopper fishing is a fun way to fish from late June through mid-September; target the banks with your casts with a plop, then skitter, drag and move them on the water.

Tip: Each day is different on what presentation the fish prefer, but know that hoppers don’t feel at home when on water and they move like it – fish your flies similarly.

Ants

Ted's Flying Ant

These are always around, but usually not in numbers. However what really makes trout go nuts are flying ants – of all sizes. Any angler who has experienced a flying ant hatch has experienced some of their best fishing. Flying ants are the “crack-cocaine” to trout – once they have one, they will do anything to have more of them – even if that means moving into shallow water in bright sun to feed on them.

Tip: Have some flying ants in your box or you might miss out on the best surface activity you will experience in years. Really – it can be an angler’s nirvana.

Beetles

Peacock and Hair Beetle

Beetles are popular with the anglers who relish terrestrial fishing. Small in size and dark in color, they can be hard to track on the water. Fish them to risers that are keyed in on beetles, or fish them as a trailer to a larger fly that works as an indicator.

The size fish these small flies ((#14-20) can convince to eat can be shocking – use light tippet and a good presentation to convince them to eat along with a soft tip rod and smooth playing of the fish to get the fish to hand.

Tip: If you see fish rising but can’t tell what they are taking, look closely for any beetles that might be drifting by but are hard to see.

Foam and Rubber Hatch

Foam Body and Rubber Legs

Big flies like Chernobyl Ants tied with multiple colors of foam and active rubber legs and other natural and synthetic materials do a good job of imitating nothing, but suggest, rather, hoppers, cicadas, and stoneflies performing as a general attractor that looks like a mouthful of protein. These big bugs have a sizable silhouette, and often are enough of a temptation to pull fish out from hiding in the low water and high sun.

Tip: Fish them with and without activity, often in the middle of the river over scattered, submerged timber/structure.

Mice

Deer Hair Mouse Pattern

While it isn’t considered a hatch so to speak, big flies that look like mice imitate the naturals that hurriedly cross the river. Yes, mice do swim, and those nocturnal browns that lie in shallow water will eat the scrambling fur balls as it comes down and across the river. Right at dark and before that cold dewfall hits on the darkest nights are the best conditions for those armed with a stout leader and hook covered in hair and fur. This is also a good way to fish during the hex after the last of the bugs have emerged or floated by for the night. Glow-in-the dark fly lines and a 6 or 7 wt. rod make it easy to cast these flies and land the fish that eat them.

Cast close to the bank and inside of bends and swim that fly down and across to form a wake.

Tip: Set the hook when you feel the fish, NOT when you hear it.

The Other Hex

Recurvata Hex Spinner

Speaking of the last of the hex, the hatches experienced the last few years have been spread out thanks to inconsistent weather. Some bugs – not necessarily in thick numbers, will continue to emerger for a while into mid-July and adult spinners will often be seen on the water before dark, which can make for some great and exciting fishing. In addition to the Hexagenia limbata we are most familiar with, the Hexagenia recurvata is a smaller, darker version of the large mayfly which typically starts a few weeks after the more popular bug is done. Another mayfly that is difficult to predict but can hatch in July and into August is the Golden Drake (Potamanthus) which is similar to a hex, but larger and are more cream colored. Both of these bugs typically hatch in the late afternoon and evening and can bring up fish of all sizes.

Tip: Keep some hex flies with you from mid-June into August. As odd as it may seem, float a natural looking hex pattern in the evening or early morning well after the crowds are gone and watch what happens – you might be pleasantly surprised.

Presentation and Equipment

Having the right fly in your box is only part of the equation that is going to make your time on the water memorable. Remember: presentation trumps fly selection.

Spinner Fall

By understanding where and when the bugs are likely to emerge or fall as adults will greatly improve your chances at hitting the summer bugs. Further, imitating them with the right action can be the difference between hooking up and casting.

When the hex hatch is “over” don’t put your rods away – the next couple of months can still serve up some good fishing. If none of the bugs mentioned above are emerging or falling and if blind fishing the patterns doesn’t work, tie on Royal Coachmans, Stimulators, Patriots and other attractors to break-up the dog-days of summer – it’s a great way to fish while wet-wading your favorite stream or river staying cool and catching fish with flies that suggest rather than imitate.

Don’t abandon the streamer program at this time of year – after a rain, a meaty streamer intruding the space of a trout will trigger that predatory response. As always, practice catch and release while you have the river mostly to yourself after the busy hex season has passed.

To learn more about the various bugs, where and how to fish them, book a trip by calling 231.883.8156 or e-mailing Ted@Current-Works.com.

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