Trout

Goblin

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 15, 2012

The Goblin – A Sculpin and Goby Streamer Pattern

The Goblin is a pattern that does a good job of imitating two important food sources to fish in the Great Lakes region: the Goby and Sculpin. This large profile fly provides a great silhouette as well as action and with its inverted hook, it’s ideal when fishing either on the lake or river bottom and when fished around structure. The two-tone color perspective makes is very realistic and the barring of the rabbit helps create that illusion of food.

When fishing in Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan, I find the Goblin works very well on smallmouth bass since there is a dense population of goby; carp have been known to eat it too. With it’s weighted eyes and saturated rabbit strip it sinks fairly well and is paired with a floating line and long leader. Once it sinks, strip it fast, but with very short pops with the rod tip and watch for the fish to take. Strip sets common with saltwater fishing is a great way to make sure the fish is hooked. Sculpins make up a key component of a trout’s diet. The Goblin can be fished “trophy-style” – that is, with a large sink-tip, typically from a boat and striped through the deep holes near and around structure before recasting.

Smallmouth Bass

Another way to fish this pattern effectively is by wading with a smaller sink-tip line and fished slowly near all the structure that is likely to hold fish – primarily, the secondary structure that many of the “trophy” anglers skip. These slots, tail-outs and inside bends often provide that fish who is not hiding, but rather feeding. Rather than taking the approach of getting a territorial response from the fish, this softer approach is more like matching the natural food source and presents a pattern that wanders near a fish looking to eat. This pattern has also caught steelhead when fished with both a floating line or swung on a two-handed rod.

The fly isn’t easy to tie, but it’s not difficult either. The stacking of two colors of sculpin wool can be tricky, and if you don’t get it right the first time, cut off the wool and try again. Reminiscent of the Mad Pup, this pattern’s head is different by being trimmed short and broad to not only give the better profile, but create a more realistic swimming motion.

Goblin Recipe

Hook:           Daiichi 2451 #4
Thread:         Uni-6/0 Camel and Flymaster+ Tan
Tail:              Black Barred Rabbit Strip Gold Variant
Collar:           Rooster Saddle – Natural Brown
Fins:             Hen Saddle – Speckled Brown
Head:           Sculpin Wool – Cream and Sculpin Olive
Eyes:            Dumbbell – Red, Extra Small or Small

Tying Instructions

Step 1. Insert hook into vise, wrap base layer and dub a small body from some rabbit strip.

Step 2. Take a piece of rabbit strip and trim off the end to a tapered point.

Step 3. Poke the rabbit strip with the hook so the end of the other end of the rabbit
strip is at the end of the dubbed under body which is the tie down point.

Step 4. Tie in the collar feather and wrap a few times and tie off. Trim the fibers on the
top of the fly. This feather helps support the pectoral fins that will be tied later.

Step 5. Tie a small patch of rabbit hair on top to cover up the collar.

Step 6. Tie in hen saddles to represent the pectoral fins on each side
of the body as shown. Tie one at a time and then whip finish.

Step 7. Change your thread to the heavier and stronger Fly Master+ and tie the thread in just
behind the hook eye and tie in the dumbbell eyes with figure-8 wraps.

Step 8. Position the thread between the fly body and the lead eyes. Tie in a small clump of sculpin
wool by cinching down in middle of the hair like you would stacking deer hair.

Step 9. Rotate the vise or re position the hook in the jaws and repeat the previous step with the cream wool.

Step 10. Advance the thread to between the hook eye and dumbbell
eyes and tie in the second clump of dark wool.

Step 11. Tie in the second clump of light colored wool on the underside . Tie off and whip finish.

Step 12. It’s time to trim the wool. Work in a two-dimension approach by trimming
the top and the bottom of the head first. Once you get the profile you are looking
for, rotate the vise and trim from the top view to get the desired profile.

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Borcher’s Drake – Parachute

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 15, 2012

Borcher's Drake - Parachute

The Borcher’s Drake represents a number of different flies that hatch in the region, not just one particular mayfly making it not only versitle, but also effective. You will want to tie this pattern in various sizes to imitate many of our early mayfly patterns which include but are not limited to: Hendricksons, Mahoganies, March Browns, Black Quills, Sulphurs & Isonychias. This list of mayflies vary in color however this pattern does a good job of imitating the spinner stage of the aforementioned mayflies which all tend to be dark in color, often a mahogany/rusty color.

The original drake pattern was tied with condor feather and was more of a traditional Cat-Skill style hackle with up-right wings. The recipe and directions for the drake pattern below uses easy to find materials and is tied in a parachute style.

Parachutes are my favorite style of dry flies because they sit low in the water, have an excellent silhouette and provide an easy to see post. I also like how parachutes tend to land properly on the water and are – in my opinion – much easier to tie than the original.

Originally tied by Ernie Borcher of the Grayling area in the mid 1900’s, the drake pattern has been recognized as one of a few that should be in every angler’s fly box when fishing Michigan rivers in May and June. It’s easy to tie, effective to fish and a staple in my fly box. Not into fly tying? The Northern Angler in Traverse City stocks this custom-tied drake pattern in a variety of sizes.

Borcher’s Drake Recipe

Hook:              TMC 100 12 – 16
Thread:           Uni-8/0  Camel
Tail:                Moose Body
Body:              Cinnamon Tip Turkey Tail
Rib:                 x-small copper wire
Post:               Hi-Vis or Para-Post
Hackle:           Grizzly
Abdomen:       Brown Dry Fly Dubbing

Tying Instructions

Step 1. Wrap thread base from behind eye to above barb.

Step 2. Stack/even 4-5 moose body hairs and tie in so the
pointed ends extend 1 ½ times the length of the hook shank.

Step 3. Tie in rib/copper wire extending backward.

Step 4. Take a clump of turkey tail and remove/pull it from the stem. Tie in by the tips at the rear
of the hook where the rib is tied in. (Approximately ¼ -inch of fibers for a size 12)

Step 5. Tightly wrap the turkey forward slightly building a tapered body that gets thicker as
you approach the eye. Stop wrapping and tie off 1/3rd of the way back from the eye.

Step 6. Wrap the ribbing through the body in the opposite direction that you did the body material for
reinforcement. Then tie in your post material where the body ends. I like to make
a small loop out of the synthetic post material to keep a wing like profile.

Step 7. Tie in a hackle feather along the base and up the post.

Step 8. Dub a thorax that is slightly larger than the body. Most mayfly spinners
have a thin abdomen and a large thorax – keep that in mind when dubbing .

Step 9. Wrap a generous parachute wing with the hackle feather and tie off.

Step 10. Whip finish being careful not to trap any of the hackle in the process.

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Upper Manistee River (above Tippy Dam)

Posted by Ted Kraimer - March 15, 2012

Upper Manistee River – Scenic Spring Creek

The upper Manistee River is where we do the majority of our trout fishing. Like a big spring creek, the waters of the “Mana” tend to run clear due to the sandy soil around it. With sections of gravel and riffles, sand bottoms and some silt beds the Hex nymphs call home; there are simply lots of different bugs that hatch on this river.

Majority of the fish in this section of water are Brown Trout and Brook Trout with the occasional Rainbow Trout. Ever seen a Tiger Trout? This is a natural occurring hybrid of a brook trout and brown as both spawn in the fall. These fish are rare but they do exist in the Upper-Manistee.

The flows of the Upper Manistee river are moderate and depth changes – common sense will tell you what side of the river to be on, possible places to cross and also what side will most likely to hold the fish.

Structure includes submerged logs, overhanging trees, deeper holes and combinations of them all. Just when you think there aren’t any fish in the river, you will either move a significant fish out of a holding lie or witness a hatch that suddenly turns the river into a jacuzzi with rising fish. Don’t ever give up, just try something different.

Where

The CCC bridge and the CCC Bridge campground are focal points of the fly fisherman who fishes the Manistee. The bridge is the lower boundary of the “Flies-Only” section of water with M-72 being the upper boundary. This water is open year round and has special regulations.

Much of my guiding and fishing takes place from M-72 downstream to the Rainbow Jim’s and I have been known to fish other sections when conditions are right.

Come float sections of water on the upper Manistee and experience the fishing the water around Yellow Trees, the Miracle-Mile, The Settlement, King Trout Ranch, Burnt Cabin (BKZ), CCC Bridge, Dutch John, and Smithville. The Upper Manistee offers anglers a variety of water and fishing conditions for all experience levels.

Brook Trout

Experience not only great fishing, but a river that is not over-developed or over-used. Because of it’s remoteness, canoe and kayak traffic is not a problem on these sections of river like they are on other areas or rivers in the region.

Located about 40 miles east of Traverse City and 25 west from Grayling.

See the map at the bottom of this page for directions.

Manistee River Hatches

The Hex

The best hatches on the river and the ones to fish are many. Starting in April, the early black stones get going, and beyond that it only gets better. From the end of April through mid-May Hendricksons are the first prolific mayflies to emerge and often are mixed in with Black Caddis (Mothers day Caddis). Next come the Sulphurs, Tan Caddis, March Browns, Black Quills / Borchers Drakes, Little Yellow Sallies, and Mahogany Duns – all in the month of May and into June.

Read about some of the great insects that hatch prior to the Hex Hatch »

The big bugs of June are what dry fishermen get excited about: Brown Drakes, Isonycias, and The Hex. Into July and August the Manistee experiences Tricos, Olive Caddis, Light Cahills, and more Isonycias.

Beyond these emerging aquatic insects anglers will want to pay close attention to the terrestrials: ants, flying ants, grasshoppers, beetles and more. Size does matter on these bugs – try to match what you see on the streamside vegetation or on the water and try larger and smaller if you aren’t having success. Throughout the year anglers can expect to see lots of Blue Winged Olives (BWOs) in sizes ranging from 16 to 22; these are a staple for just about any trout fisherman — and trout!

Obviously there are more types of bugs that come off on this river, but the above mentioned are the ones any fly angler and fly tier should be most concerned with.

For more information regarding our hatches, check out the Hatch Chart.

Streamer Fishing on the Manistee

Modern day streamer fishing for trophy sized trout was developed on this river by its pioneer Kelly Galloup, former owner and guide of the Troutsman fly shop once located in Traverse City. As a way to catch big fish on those bright days without a hatch or when trying to target big brown trout, streamer fishing gives anglers a great technique which has become not only popular here on the Manistee and other local rivers, but has caught on in popularity throughout the other regions of the country and trout rivers.

Beyond effective, this method also is exciting to watch a fish over twenty inches pounce on the fly before your eyes. Not to give the illusion that catching a fish is easy using streamer techniques, but any angler fishing this river will want to be prepared to cast some big flies (up to six inches long) to pull that lazy fish out of his lair when surface activity is null. Try fly patterns that imitate: sculpins, chestnut lampreys, smaller trout, chubs, and of course that generic fly that not only will move some water, but simply looks too good not to eat. Look to streamer fish all-year with the best times being April-June and September-November.

To learn more about streamer fishing, read Tips For Better Streamer Fishing »

Directions and Map

The CCC Bridge is located about 40 miles East of Traverse City, 20 miles South East of Kalkaska and 25 miles West of Grayling, Michigan. Anglers fishing the Au Sable River in Grayling often spend time also fishing the Manistee.

Map of the Upper Manistee River (above Tippy Dam)

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Tar Baby

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 14, 2012

This is my twist/version of the Tar Baby fly pattern which borrows elements from the Mutant Ninja Cicada originated by Emmett Heath – famed guide of the Green River in Utah. Used primarily as a cicada imitation this large terrestrial pattern offers a large profile and bright, kicking rubber legs serving as an attractor when there isn’t much on the water’s surface to bring fish up.

During warm summers in northern Michigan the loud and often obnoxious buzzing sound coming from trees is that of a Cicada. While the insect doesn’t have an abundant population in this region, they are worthy of having in your box as an attractor – if not an imitation of the bug itself.

Tar Baby – Underside

Floating high because of its foam body and elk hair wing, this fly works well as a indicator fly where a second fly is tied to the bend of the hook – either a nymph or a smaller, hard to see dry fly like a beetle or Trico. Fish it solo like any large terrestrial like a grasshopper – close to the bank, over deeper runs and all water that appears promising. A little twitch or even some skating/skittering often brings fish’s attention to it.

Consider tying the same fly using different color pieces of foam…. tan, khaki, chartreuse, or olive as it can suggest grasshoppers and play around with different leg colors. Don’t limit yourself to using this fly just for trout – it has taken its fair share of bass, too.

Tar Baby Recipe

Hook:           Dry Fly Hook – Size 10 (Gamakatsu S10)
Thread:         Uni 6/0 – Black
Body:           Black Foam – 1/8″
Underbody:    Ice Dub – Peacock
Underwing:    Pearlescent Sheet
Wing:            Elk Body
Legs:            Grizzly Barred Rubber Legs – Med – Red
Indicator:      White Foam – 1/8″

Tying Instructions

Step 1. Cut body from foam sheet approximately 1/4-inch wide 1-1/2 inch long and make a tapper on one end.

Step 2. Place hook in Vise and wrap base layer from behind eye to above hook barb. This is where
you will tie the foam down with the tapered end extending beyond the hook bend.

Step 3. Once tied down, dub the under body to provide some iridescence to the body.

Step 4. Tie the foam down again behind the hook eye with the additional foam extending forward.

Step 5. Trim the extending foam the length of the hook shank and then cut the corners off.

Step 6. Tie in a piece of pearlescent sheet on top of the foam that just extends beyond the body.
Too large of an under wing will tend to twist/helicopter thin tippets when casting.

Step 7. Clean and even/stack a sparse amount of elk hair and tie in over the
under body with the tips extending the same length as the under wing.

Step 8. Tie the rubber legs in on each side of the body forming the fish loving “X” and trim so the front legs are
shorter than the back legs. If the rear legs foul in the bend of the hook when fishing, trim streamside.

Step 9. Use a piece of white foam which should be slightly narrower than the body and tie
above the elk hair to reinforce the elk hair and keep it extending backwards
without excessive flaring. Whip finish and apply two coats of head cement.

To address any potential misunderstandings of the name Tar Baby, Wikipedia defines it as:

“The Tar-Baby is a doll made of tar and turpentine used to entrap Br’er Rabbit in the second of the Uncle Remus stories. The more that Br’er Rabbit fights the Tar-Baby, the more entangled he becomes. In modern usage according to Random House, “tar baby” refers to any “sticky situation” that is only aggravated by additional contact.”

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Fin Clip

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 14, 2012

Fin Clip – Imitates Stocked Rainbow Trout and Steelhead

Each year DNR fish stocking trucks back up to the river to subsidize fish populations on many of our rivers. The beeping noise these trucks make when in reverse is like a dinner bell to the larger fish in the river – they know that the next two months is a perfect time to get a mouthful of easy prey.

The Fin Clip was designed to imitate naïve hatchery rainbow trout put into the wild where the natives take note and eat big. I first started tying this as a small baitfish pattern but it soon became “super-sized” after seeing some large fish eat the stockers. After I tied some for a few fellow guides it didn’t take long to become a favorite of both anglers and fish looking
for something big.

Stocking Hatchery Fish Becomes A Food Source

I like to tie the Fin Clip in a few sizes to replicate the size of the fish stocked in the river. Hatcheries sometimes have various size planters and as anglers, we are always trying to imitate the common food source – it’s no different here – match the naturals.

Tie this pattern in other color schemes to imitate chubs, brown trout, suckers and bass for not only trout but other predatory species. While it doesn’t imitate anything in particular, Chartreuse and White makes a great attractor which fish often crush.

The primary material used in the Fin Clip is Icelandic Sheep Hair because of its inherit qualities. First, it moves, slinks and wiggles when the fly is paused between strips and the current has its way with it. Second, it offers neutral buoyancy allowing the fly to suspend in the water column on the pause. Third, Icelandic sheep hair comes in a wide variety of colors. Fourth, when wet, it fills out and maintains a realistic profile. Fifth and lastly, it sheds water with one good false cast making it easier to cast than you might think.

How To Fish the Fin Clip

Unlike a lot of streamers used for trophy trout, this fly doesn’t need to be in the “zone” for a fish to eat it. Rather, fish can see this large profile pattern and when fished with long strips and 2 -4 second pauses (depending on the depth of water), it gives the appearance of a disoriented stocked fish that isn’t swimming all that well and creates a perfect predator-prey relationship and gets the fish to move long distances to eat. I cast this fly with 6 and 7 wt. rods and heavy sink-tips like Scientific Anglers 250 grain Streamer Express. This 30’ sinking section of line keeps the fly in the optimum water column throughout the retrieve. Leaders should be short – 5 to 6 feet long and Maxima Ultragreen in 8 and 10 pound-test is preferred.

Not perfect

While effective, the Fin-Clip is not perfect and has some drawbacks to it. While it’s a good thing that the sheep hair sheds water to ease in casting, those that might be around you if fishing from a boat will notice the isolated showers it creates.

Don’t rush – cast slow with a long casting stroke and don’t try to force or punch a cast – it will cause the materials to foul in the hook bend loosing it’s profile and action.

It’s a fly for big aggressive fish which usually key in on the eye (notice the oversized eyes?) and attack at the head. This can create some broken hearts with fish that “nip” at the tail or attack the head and miss the hook. I have tried to incorporate a stinger hook for some of those tentative takes, but haven’t found a method that doesn’t compromise the action of the pattern nor get tangled up with the connection .

This pattern does take a little time to tie, but since it doesn’t sink like a rock, it doesn’t hang up too much on the bottom. When it does, it is easy to see and often get back without donating.

The Fin Clip is predominately used for those fish that are not only big and eat big too– it’s a pattern that is meant for the alpha-fish that have given up on snacking and prefer to eat large meals with one bite.

Fin Clip Recipe

Hook:           Gamakatsu B10S, SZ  1/0 or 2
Thread:        Uni 6/0 – Olive Dun
Tail:             White Bucktail
Body:           Icelandic Sheep Hair/Streamer Hair – White, Shad Gray, Silver Gray & Olive Brown  Pink Bucktail
Throat:         Calf Tail
Flash:           Shrimp Pink Krystal Flash and a subtle flash like Wing ‘N Flash or Angel Hair and Shrimp
Eyes:            SZ. 1/0: 3/8”, SZ. 2 : 1/4” 3-D Molded
Other:           Flex Seal, Black Indelible Marker, Super Fabric Textile Adhesive, Sally Hansen Clear Nail Polish

Tying Instructions

Step 1. Cut lead wire to build a keel – .035 for sz. 1/0, .025 for sz. 2. Wrap one
piece of lead at a time along each side of the shank and downward making an
upside-down triangle until you have all 5 pieces securely wrapped. Then apply
a few drops of Zap-a-Gap. The feel keeps the fly tracking relatively straight and right side up.

Step 2. Tie in a clump of Bucktail that will extend almost as long as the
body material – Aprox. 3 times the shank’s length. This under tail helps
maintain the ideal profile and discourages the material fouling in the hook bend.

Step 3. Tie in the bottom body hair – this is Shad Gray from Wapsi. Start with
a good clump and remove some of the under fur. Also, pull out any of the long
hairs. Tie in above the hook point leaving a little bit of the ends and then wrap
up into the hairs to get a good purchase on the materials. Take note of the hair length.

Step 4. Tie in Silver Gray (Hareline) Sheep Hair on the top
of the hook using the same techniques as in step 3.

Step 5. Tie in the second section of Sheep Hair on the underside – white.

Step 6. Tie in the second Section of Sheep Hair on top of the hook – a mix of Silver Gray and Olive Brown.

Step 7. Tie in a strand or two of Krystal Flash and some subtle flash material like Angel Hair
to add just a hint of sparkle – Most stocked fish are pale for the first few months after being planted.

Step 8. Tie in a small section of pink deer hair on each side. Not only does this give
the Fin Clip a light pink hue, but also helps keep the sheep hair in place when fished.

Step 9. Tie in a clump of White Calf Tail for a throat. The tips should extend downward
just beyond the hook point and helps prevent the body material from fouling.

Step 10. Build a large head of thread to behind the hook eye and whip finish a few times to secure.

Step 11. Apply Super Fabric Textile Adhesive with a bodkin just above center on the material and
half way back between the hook point and hook eye. This should also cover the flash and pink bucktail.
Apply eye so that it assists in building up a heavier front profile rather than a long, streamlined shape.
Use more adhesive than you might think to acheive this “upward bulk” appearance. Thie eye and adhesive helps
keep the various materials in place in addition to reinforcing them. Repeat on other side. Allow adhesive to dry.

Step 12. With the hook in the vise, apply a light coat of nail polish and then dry on a drying wheel. If you don’t
have one, set the hook point so the fly is vertical and apply very light coats. Make sure the head is completely
cured before applying a second coat. Once dry, take a marker and lightly darken the very top of the sheep hair.
In the past I have made vertical parr marks on the side of the fly with a black Sharpie marker.

Tying Notes

To speed up the process, I like to sit down and keel a number of hooks at one time and then come back to them after the Zappa Gap has dried before the next step. This is also true with applying Flex Seal to the bucktail tail, applying the eyes and finishing the head. Super Fabric Textile Adhesive is the only product I have used that keeps the eyes attached to flies – it has some flexibility which keeps it from sheering off.

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