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Flashtail Whistler – Fire Tiger

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 12, 2012

Fire Tiger Whistler

Originally this pattern was designed by Dan Blanton for saltwater use, but over the years it has been adopted by freshwater anglers for its versatility and effectiveness. This pattern is one of the must-have flies that will work in various colors for various species – if it is a predator, it will eat the Whistler.

Beyond pike and musky, I have found various sizes and colors to work well for trout, bass and salmon. The color choices are endless and this particular scheme is a favorite of salmon when they first are in the river. Anglers using lures for these fresh salmon have an affinity for Storm Thunderstick lures in Fire Tiger and it’s effectiveness has led me to tying this fly pattern in a similar color scheme. Make sure your fly box is filled with yellow/red, white/red, chart./olive, olive/yellow, orange/olive, and gray/white to be
equipped and ready for various species in various situations.

Assortment of Colors for an Assortment of Species

Like the name suggests, there is a liberal amount of flash tied into the tail that not only provides flash, but also action.

The bead-chain eyes “whistle” as you cast the fly through the air. The physical weight of this pattern makes it easy to cast and it retains little water helping to keep it light weight. The thin profile of this pattern causes it to sink slowly which is ideal for shallow water and floating lines while it allows for decent penetration of the water column when fished with sink-tips. Further, you can mitigate the bead chain eyes with other, heavy sinking eyes if you are looking to get the fly even deeper.

Recipe:

Hook: Gamakatsu B10S, TMC 811S, 600SP; Size: 3/0 – 6
Thread: Fly Master + or Uni 3/0 – Chartreuse
Tail: Flashabou – A mix of Kelly Green, Green Glow-in-the-dark, and Chartreuse
Body: Bucktail – Flo. Orange, Kelly Green and Black
Wing: Chartruese Grizzly Saddle hackle. Krystal Flash – Chartreuse
Throat: Red Dubbing (I like Pseudo Seal, Angora Goat or Simi-Seal) or Red Chenille
Collar: Highlander Green Schlappen
Eyes: X-Large Bead Chain – Stainless Steel

Tying Instructions

Step 1. Wrap a thread base to above the hook point and take thread back to
behind the hook and tie in bead-chain eyes on the underside of the hook.

Step 2. Tie in Flashabou tail – 3 times hook shank length. [The pictured fly’s
tail is a little shorter which was done for photographing reasons]

Step 3. Invert hook and tie in orange bucktail so tips extend one hook shank length behind the bend
of the hook. Trim excess and wrap in between butts to get a good purchase and secure.

Step 4. Return hook to normal position. Tie in top bucktail to same length as
bottom section, but slightly denser to ensure the fly swims right side up. Majority
of the top color is Kelly Green with some black on top to match the color scheme.
Trim excess and secure. Tie in a few strands of Krystal Flash on each side.

Step 5. Prepare saddle hackle by trimming some of the fibers, but leaving the butts to
allow for a secure mount. Pinch the stem of the feather flat with smooth faced hemostats or
pliers to keep the feather from rotating when mounted. Mount on each side of the fly with
natural feather curves bending in. The tips should be the same length as the bucktail. Tie in
additional Krystal Flash over the hackle wings extending aprox. the same length as the hackle.

Step 6. Loosely dub over the thread wraps with some red dubbing. This not only helps to protect the
materials, but also gives an appearance of gills. The original pattern was tied with red chenille, but I
prefer the low profile of dubbing which also makes for a textured surface to tie in the schlappen feathers.

Step 7. Tie in 2 or 3 large Schlappen feathers by their tips between the dubbing and eyes. Be sure
to tie schlappen in where fibers are long enough (aprox. just larger than a hook gape).

Step 8. Wind all the feathers together forward to just behind the eyes and tie down. Whip finish and tie off.

Optional: When fishing, try using a Wiggle Fin Action Disc on the line in front of the fly. This plastic
dish creates a unique wobble and imparts a lot of action when pulled slowly. The resulting wiggle/motion
of the fly and the flashabou tail is seductive. Click here for the Wiggle Fin website.

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The Boardman River

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 12, 2012

The Boardman River is a gem when one considers its proximity to Traverse City. Starting as two rivers, the North and South Branches near the villages of Kalkaska and South Boardman, they merge and become one, flow north and eventually drain into West Grand Traverse Bay. The river generally runs clear and cooler, resulting in insect hatches that can be delayed behind its neighboring rivers.

Beginning in 2012 and ending in late 2018 a total of three hydroelectric dams were removed on the Boardman River watershed after some controversy and a lot of work in an effort to return the river to it’s natural riverbed.

Brown Bridge dam – the furthest upstream – was the first to be removed, followed by Boardman Dam (Cass Road traveled over the dam) and lastly, Sabin Dam. A small dam and fish ladder are in place in downtown Traverse City while the future of a proposed FishPass system works through the process of design, approval and implementation.

For the nostalgic history buff or interested angler, one of the most popular dry fly pattern used – The Adams, was originally developed by guide Len Halladay for angler Charles Adams who fished the Boardman River.

Upper Section

Brook Trout

The upper section includes both the North and South Branches of the Boardman and where they come together, the “Forks” and downstream to Brown Bridge Pond. This is the smaller water of the Boardman which experiences fair to good hatches. Ranch Rudolph is located in this section of river and there are a number of places to access the river including some State of Michigan campgrounds: The Forks, Sheck’s Place, Trail Camp and Brown Bridge Road. The river averages 25 feet in width and flows quickly over a gravel bottom. Not good with a roll cast? You will be soon as there are bank-side and overhanging trees in much of the upper section of river. Don’t look for real large fish in this section, but fun fish nonetheless. Fish slow and thoroughly and you might be rewarded with something a little bigger than and handful of brook trout – larger fish do exist in this water.

Middle Section

Boardman River - Fly Fishing For Brown Trout

Fishing Close to Traverse City

When Brown Bridge Dam was removed, so was Brown Bridge pond – the impoundment upstream from the dam. It’s been fascinating to witness this old lake bed become a river again as the water moves quickly through a valley of vegetation. Quick moving and relatively shallow water is lined with easy to read structure all the way to the former dam site. With additional time, the Boardman’s wild fish population should redistribute throughout what is essentially new river.

Below the former Brown Bridge dam’s location anglers will find the quick and swift water continues with the addition of some deeper holes along its gravely bottom. Hatches of Hendricksons, Sulphurs, Brown Drakes and Grey Drakes can offer the fly angler some great fishing for brookies and brown trout close to town. Public access is relatively limited to a few bridge crossings and Schumsky’s access.

Just below the Beitner Road crossing is some of the fastest and deepest water in the river and requires even more care when wading. In short order the river meets the former impoundments of Boardman and Sabin dam which have also been returned to their natural river bottom and offers great looking water with lots of potential.

The water in these sections are still in transformation as of early 2019 and it will take another couple of years for the banks to completely stabilize, the planting of vegetation to take root and spread, structure added and ultimately the fish to occupy it. While the fish are still learning the water, anglers will be doing the same because this water resembles nothing like it had for the past 70 plus years.

By removing the dams, the average high temperatures have already dropped significantly making for better fish survival in the warmer months of the year which will only help the non-stocked waters offer fly fishers an opportunity at brown and brook trout.

Lower Section

The water below Boardman Lake – specifically downstream of Union Street Dam located in Traverse City is considered the lower section. At this time, migratory fish are not passed above this dam as decisions on policy and a potential FishPass barrier and sorting system proposed for this location are made.

While considered “Urban Fishing,” steelhead anglers catch fish throughout the fall, winter and spring — often on their lunch break or just after work. In the warmer months, anglers can find Smallmouth, Brown Trout, Rainbow Trout, Pike, Carp, Walleye and who knows what else swimming in it. Not a bad place to cast a line when in town with a limited schedule.

In late August as Salmon begin to move upstream, a weir is placed just below Front St. and is used for egg collection and processing. The fish congregate below the dam as do anglers making it a bit of a spectacle. Watching the fish jump up the fish ladder can be entertaining as is watching the fish processing – if in town this time of year, stop by and have a look.

Anglers can be found in the surf — where the mouth of the Boardman meets the bay — swinging flies or casting baitfish patterns which can bring a Steelhead, Salmon, Lake Trout, Cisco, or Smallmouth Bass to hand.

Boardman River Hatches

Boardman River - Fly Fishing and Matching the Hatch

Hendrickson

There are a number of insects that can be found on the various sections of the Boardman River, and the times of the hatch can depend on which section as the dams and the waters above and below them are affected. The most noteworthy of insects include Hendricksons, Tan Caddis, Sulphurs, Brown Drakes, Grey Drakes and The Hex.

The summer months can offer some good terrestrial fishing due to the overhanging vegetation along the river. When nothing seems to be working on top, try swinging soft-hackles, smaller streamers that imitate small fish or, when all else fails, go with a big streamer on a sink-tip.

Check out the Hatch Chart for specific bug emergence information.

Map & Directions

The Boardman is located in Traverse City and starts 20 miles east near the villages of Kalkaska and South Boardman. Most of the river is Grand Traverse County.

Map of Traverse City and the lower Boardman River. Click to interact and scroll south for additional mapping.

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Sucker Spawn Egg Fly

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 10, 2012

This fly represents a clump of eggs released from either a walleye or a sucker, where it gets its name. It is easy to tie and looks very realistic when wet. Do know that if you tie it in oranges and in larger sizes to imitate steelhead or salmon eggs, it will tend to be fairly heavy and can easily drag a bit.

The material for the sucker spawn varies; some tiers choose to use angora yarn, small amounts of egg yarn, Aunt Lydia’s Sparkle Yarn to name just a few. Find what looks good to you and have some of these flies in your box. I use Needleloft yarn available at craft shops.

Sucker Spawn Recipe

Hook:      TMC 105 #6-10, Gamakatsu C14S #8 -12, TMC 2457 #8-12
Thread:    Uni 6/0 – Lt. Cahill
Body:       Needleloft in both yellow and light yellow

Tying Instructions

Step 1.Insert hook into vise and wrap a thread base from the hook eye to above the hook barb.

Step 2. Take about 5” of each color thread and separate the two strands, using one of each color.

Step 3. Lay the yarn parallel along the hook shank and wrap back towards the bend in the hook.

Step 4. Take one strand of yarn and twist in your fingers stopping just before the
material double overs onto itself, then fold over, to make a loop and tie down.

Step 5. Repeat with both strands/colors and vary it up a little for a realistic look.
(Notice how the different colors are on both sides of the hook shank?)

Step 6. Whip finish.

A complete Sucker Spawn Egg Pattern

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Thing-a-ma-Hex

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 9, 2012

Hex fishing at night can be difficult for some just to know where the fly is, let alone if it’s on target and drifting drag- free to rising fish. Glow-in-the-dark fly lines help with their non-intruding glow characteristics, but that doesn’t show you your fly at the end of the leader, where it’s at and whether or not the fish just ate your hex or a natural bug nearby.

The “Thing-a-ma-Hex” uses a miniature, glow-in-the-dark strike indicator (expensive word for bobber) designed to be the post while helping you to keep track of the fly once its on the water. This glowing post also helps to keep the fly landing upright and floating on the water.

Charge the uni-bobber with a bright flashlight being careful not to shine the light on the water and fish you are targeting – that assuredly will put them down. The amount of glow is very subtle, so it doesn’t spook fish while providing an idea of where the fly is located on the water.

If you are looking for a bright beacon, this is not it. You will want to dress this hex fly with floatant beforehand, and as with any dry fly, keep it out of the water until you are ready to cast. Have fun tying and good luck hex fishing!

Thing-a-ma-Hex Recipe

Hook:           TMC 2313 #6
Thread: Flymaster Plus – Brown
Tail:              Pheasant Tail
Body:           Deer Hair
Hackle:         Brown & Grizzly Rooster Neck or Saddle
Post:            Uni-Bobber – Glow-In-The-Dark

Tying Instructions

Step 1. Put the hook in the vise and wrap a base layer of thread from behind the eye to above the
hook point. Slip the uni-bobber over the eye of the hook about ¼ inch behind the eye and attach to
the hook with figure-8 wraps so it is upright. Make enough wraps and tight enough to keep it there.

Step 2. Trim off a 4-5 pheasant tails fibers and tie in behind
the uni-bobber so the tips extend 1½ times the hook shank.

Step 3. Select two large hackle feathers. Trim some of the barbs to stubs at the
base of the feather to provide some grip and prevent the feather from slipping out.

Step 4. Tie in at the base of the uni-bobber with the underside/convex side of the
feather facing you. After tying in, wrap horizontally up the base of the uni-bobber.

Step 5. Select a long clump of deer hair that is at approximately the diameter of a
pencil. Clean the under-fur and short hairs, then use a hair stacker to even it. Pull out by the
base of the hair and remove the short hairs, while trying to get the proper thickness for the
body which should be aprox. 2/3 of a pencil’s diameter. Tie in the deer hair between the
uni-bobber and hook eye so the tips extends beyond the hook half the length of the shank.
The pheasant tail fibers should extend beyond the tips making for a tail.

Step 6. Even the hair so it is on both sides of the hook shank.

Step 7. Gently wrap the thread backwards while holding the extended deer hair
with your opposite hand. Make for even spaced wraps falling ¼” from the tips.

Step 8. At the end, make two or three wraps a little more pressure, then advance the thread forward
again with increased pressure, crisscrossing the wraps and ending between the uni-bobber and hook eye.

Step 9. Trim the butts of the deer hair and tie down the head covering any deer hair that is exposed.

Step 10. Take both the feathers at the same time and wrap them under the bulbous uni-bobber
and make a heavy parachute style hackle. Tie off and whip finish. Be sure to out head cement
on both the head of the fly and the wraps at the end of the extended body.

The end result!

The idea for this fly was borrowed from a fly called a Thing-A-Ma-Bug which uses non-glow in the dark
uni-bobbers as the post to assist with floatation and easy identification on the water.

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McFly Foam Egg

Posted by Jeanne Kraimer - March 8, 2012

The typical material for tying Glo Bugs is Glo Bug Yarn or Egg Yarn and many, including myself have found tying nice, round looking egg flies is difficult when using this material. In the mid-1990’s a new material, McFly Foam yarn, hit the market and tying nice, round eggs has been easier ever since. It’s available in huge array of colors and anglers can mix them up or incorporate dots very easily for a custom combination.

An advantage to tying these flies is most of the material sits above the hook shank without impeding the hook gape allowing you to use a little smaller hook while keeping the egg the focal point hiding the hook.

The primary reason why McFly material works so well is its amount of elasticity. The texture, however, is very “clingy” so if you have dry hands, dead skin and/or rough edges on your fingers you are about to learn the meaning of frustration. Try using a pumice stone to smooth those fingertips and you’ll find it’s easier to handle this material – especially when tying a couple dozen McFly Foam eggs.

There is pretty much every color variation available in McFly Foam to match the egg pattern you desire. Try mixing a few similar colors to achieve a mottled, but realistic egg imitation to accommodate the classic primary color with a dot.

McFly Foam Egg Recipe

Hook:           TMC 105 #6-10, TMC 2457 #8-12 (Scud Hook) or Gamakatsu C14S
Thread:         Danville Flymaster Plus – color to match main yarn color
Yarn:            McFly Foam – Oregon Cheese and Dark Red

Tying Instructions

Step 1. Insert hook into vise and make a thread wrap working from the hook eye
back to the hook point and the midway between the hook point and the hook eye.

Step 2. Cut egg yarn about 1 ½ inches long. The primary color should be a little less than the diameter
of a hot dog. If you don’t use enough yarn the fly won’t be as round as it should be. Use too
much and it will look a bit obtuse. The second color should be a little less than the diameter of a pencil.

Step 3. Lay the McFly Foam parallel on top of the hook with the secondary color on top and
wrap down with a few loose wraps midway on the yarn. Tighten the wraps and pull firmly with a
few more wraps being sure to wrap on top of one another. This is why we use a strong, flat thread.

Step 4. Pull the yarn upward and horizontally wrap the base of the yarn like
you would a post on a parachute dry fly. Make about 4 or five, tight wraps.

Step 5. Advance the thread to just in front of the yarn and whip finish.

Step 6. Trim the excess foam by pulling up on the yarn (not pictured) and then cut. This step
is crucial to the appearance of the fly and with a little experience you should be able to determine
the proper length. Try cutting the foam no more than half of the distance of the hook gape.

Step 7. After cutting, the foam looks domed not round. Take your
fingers and roll the material which will give you a rounded appearance.

Step 8. Your finished McFly Foam egg.

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